The riding position for the 2006 SC1K monoposto is very aggressive for a stock bike as the rider's body is pitched forward quite a bit. The ergonomics cause many riders discomfort, particularly around the wrists. I rode for over a year and put on tank grips to help my legs hold me up better but any riding for over 20-30 minutes just became uncomfortable on my wrists no matter how hard I tried to stay off them. Compounding the problem for me is the fact that I use a mouse and keyboard all day so my wrists are over-used enough as it is. So I obtained a pair of Ducati risers that give about 2" of rise over the stock clip-ons and installed them. The general consensus within the forum is that they help alleviate the wrist (and neck/back for some) issues so I figured it wouldn't hurt me to try. For me the change was good, they do help, and I would recommend the change. The nice part: They won't put you up like riding a GT so the position is still aggressive looking.
Tools needed: 6mm, 5mm, 4mm Allen wrenches; 10mm, 8mm socket (ratchet wrench); #2 Phillips screwdriver; round file (rat tail) and I'd recommend a hack saw; blue Loc-tite thread locker.

30 files, last one added on Jul 03, 2011
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Simple bolt-on cosmetic part from Ducabike. I purchased it from CJMoto.com. Replaces the stock front sprocket cover, which is plastic, with a smaller aluminum unit. It comes with a real carbon-fiber insert and a clear plastic insert so you can choose to install either one. Very easy to do for anyone.

13 files, last one added on Feb 04, 2012
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How I installed my PCIII-USB on my bike. In order to keep the PCIII protected I put mine under my seat. Due to the distance I had to extend the TPS lead and make a pig-tail to extend the female PCIII injector connectors. The PCIII male connectors didn't require additional work since the stock wiring harness female connectors had enough length to meet them. The nice part with my pig-tails is that removing them from the injector is MUCH easier than it is with the OEM connectors!

8 files, last one added on Apr 28, 2012
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Installing a new rear suspension is easy, it's the tuning that I found time-consuming. I swapped out my OEM suspension for an Ohlins Racing one with an 698-02/36 Ohlins spring for my riding weight (~185 pounds). A 10mm Allen wrench is needed for removing the suspension bolts and you'll need something to raise/lower the bike AWAY from it's swing arm (like an engine lift, NOT a bike lift). Look at section G7 in the Ducati workshop manual for suspension removal/install. GREASE B is molyb (see section A in the workshop manual) and torque value for the bolts is 55-Nm +/-10% (section C). I used this site for setting up my rear suspension:
http://www.ehow.com/how_4602262_setup-suspension-sportbike-motorcycle.html
My bike has 7.95mm free sag and 29.42mm rider sag.

8 files, last one added on Dec 27, 2012
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This is a much easier job than many think. Watching the video at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXUgtytXI9o was enough for me and I was surprised how simple it was. My future belt changes will now be even quicker now that I've done it. These pictures show the method I used instead of counting the belt teeth. Though this shows the vertical belt being done the same concept applies to the horizontal belt -- which then needs to be removed in order to do the vertical belt.

7 files, last one added on Jul 28, 2013
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At ~15K miles my clutch was slipping and clattering loudly so it was time to change out the clutch pack. After some expert guidance I opted to change out the OEM 12T clutch basket for an EVR 48T unit, complete with EVR ventilated pressure plate & spring caps, and stainless steel bolts & springs. As you can see, the clutch was VERY worn out! Replacement was a good learning experience. The 48T upgrade will give longevity to the clutch system and the EVR brand gives it good looks.

33 files, last one added on Aug 05, 2013
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Installation of the Lamin-X tint (lightest tint, smoked) on our Ducati Diavel Strada. For our application I decided to NOT cover the LED parking/running light in order to accent/break-up the all-dark front end. For best results the headlight should be removed and this is to help that task. In the shop manual see section 6-4, Electric system and engine control system, 4-Lights and indicating devices, Renewal of the headlight. Note that a thread locking solution should be used to keep the fasteners secure. I used what I had, which was Loctite purple, to keep them secure but allow them to be removed without too much hassle if necessary however Ducati recommends using Loctit 243 (i.e., LOCK 2 from section 1-2, General.

24 files, last one added on Oct 03, 2014
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I swapped out the stock incandescent bulbs for brighter LED units. The OEM bulbs are the BAU15S base with 150 degree offset locking pins. These are brighter, throw out more light, blink at the same rate as the fronts, and their color matches the front more closely as well.

20 files, last one added on Aug 02, 2014
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The stock H7 bulb used for the low-beam is woefully dim. Riding at night was a real eye-opener in all regards! A popular kit is by DDM Tuning ( http://www.ddmtuning.com ) as the components are small and the unit is reliable. Oh, it was less than $25, too! I got the 35-watt H7-style bulb with a color temperature of 5000K (white light). Getting the entire unit into the headlight bucket is possible but it's not as easy as I would like. Having long, slender fingers will help. The amount of light it produces is incredible! It makes the original seem like a candle was being used. Riding at night is now much safer.

38 files, last one added on Oct 03, 2014
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