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Last additions - Ducati voltage regulator/rectifier relocation
MOSFET_bracket_012.jpg
1702 viewsSpace is now available. I'll be using this to house my Dynojet PowerCommander III.Jun 01, 2011
MOSFET_bracket_006.jpg
1432 viewsNow insert the right bolt in the R/R and tighten into the seat pan's captured nut. Remove the left bolt, apply Loc-tite (just like the other two fasteners) and tighten it to the bracket. Very snug but not so tight that you strip out the threads in the metal!Jun 01, 2011
MOSFET_bracket_010.jpg
Mounted and wired!1572 viewsThis is how it looks when done.Jun 01, 2011
MOSFET_bracket_004.jpg
1469 viewsNext, loosely put in the left bolt. This will help keep the left R/R hole lined up.Jun 01, 2011
MOSFET_bracket_003.jpg
1483 viewsPosition the bracket with the right bolt, having the hole centered on it. Tighten the counter-sunk bolt (left side) into the bracket and seat pan's captured nut. Remove the bolt from the right side.Jun 01, 2011
MOSFET_bracket_002.jpg
1614 viewsThe MOSFET R/R, painted bracket, and stainless-steel fasteners. Blue Loc-tite is necessary on all three fasteners. The counter-sink bolt uses a 4mm Allen while the two cap bolts use a 5mm Allen wrench.Jun 01, 2011
MOSFET_bracket_001.jpg
Added: Everything you need to know to mount a MOSFET R/R!1834 viewsHere's the bracket I made from some scrap steel I had. It's 3/16" (5mm) thick. If you use a different thickness just make sure the piece used is thick enough to hold 4 threads at a MINIMUM! You want plenty of fastener thread engagement for the M6x1.00mm tap as that is where one side of the MOSFET R/R will be mounted. The chamfered hole is made with a 17/64" bit and then widened via chamfering. NOTE: Prior to this I had my MOSFET R/R mounted in the stock location with just one bolt and had NO ISSUES with it coming loose/moving.Jun 01, 2011
VR_move_014.avi
2237 viewsVideo showing how to lift the seat pan and pass the R/R through.

See this video on YouTube.com for faster viewing --> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vkBDNjCG7-w
May 04, 2010
VR_move_020.jpg
2147 viewsYou can see in this picture that the R/R wiring is protected. Even the R/R is forward of center from the tire so it won't get too abused.May 04, 2010
VR_move_019.jpg
1958 viewsMay 04, 2010
VR_move_018.jpg
2036 viewsMay 04, 2010
VR_move_017.jpg
2115 viewsMay 04, 2010
VR_move_017a.jpg
2068 viewsHere it is, mounted and ready for action.May 04, 2010
VR_move_016.jpg
2141 viewsI recommend bolting the seat pan in place before mounting the R/R. It just makes installation much, much easier. As can be seen, the R/R cabling passes through the gap between the forward seat pan clips. You can also clip the seat release cable back in. Don't forget to test fit your Irish Whiskey flask! Very important.May 04, 2010
VR_move_009.jpg
2062 viewsHere's the underside of the seat pan after I drilled through with the 3/16" drill bit. the 3/16" bit fits perfectly in the hole and doesn't touch the threads. You want to drill all the way through the pan!May 04, 2010
VR_move_012.jpg
2266 viewsThis part is optional but here's what I did. I had some aluminum, butyl-backed tape that's water-proof. I lightly traced the outline of the R/R and cut the tape to slightly larger than the outline. The tape I had is just shy of 2". I used two pieces of the tape, each 4.5" long. I also cleaned the underside of the seat pan with household rubbing alcohol to insure a strong bond.May 04, 2010
VR_move_015.jpg
2146 viewsTo mount the R/R, I used two 6mm x 1.00 x 25mm stainless steel cap head bolts. Between the R/R and seat pan are two stainless steel washers (same size as the bolts). These act as a spacer to put an air gap between the R/R and the seat pan. Remember, we want air flow all around the R/R so don't mount it flush to the seat pan!

I do NOT recommend using the stock bolts! I used stainless steel since the fasteners will be exposed to the elements and we don't want to deal with rust later on. The bolts are also 5mm longer and this allows more of the bolt to thread into the brass nuts. I also used blue thread locker.
May 04, 2010
VR_move_010.jpg
1985 viewsNext, use a 6mm x 1.00 tap to thread the brass and plastic that you drilled through.May 04, 2010
VR_move_011.jpg
2074 viewsMake sure you tap all the way through the hole. You will get a fair amount of brass flakes so be sure to vacuum your mess up! In hindsight, I'd recommend covering your tire and chain guard with a large rag.May 04, 2010
VR_move_008.jpg
2607 viewsHere you can see the drilled holes. The left one is after drilling with the larger bit. The right hole is just after I drilled with the pilot bit. I have a light below the seat pan.May 04, 2010
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