Last additions - Oberon clutch slave |
594 viewsThe nice thing with the titanium "colored" Oberon is that its coloration is close to that of the stock unit and thus doesn't stand out.Jan 30, 2011
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622 viewsInstalled, bled, and ready for use!Jan 30, 2011
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611 viewsUse an 8mm open-ended wrench to crack open the bleeder nipple when bleeding the clutch slave. I used clear tubing, bungeed to the kick-stand, and let it drain into a glass container. I bled my system until fresh fluid appeared. Remember to keep an eye on the reservoir! Oh yeah, you no longer need the plastic wrap cover. When done, make sure the reservoir is about 3/4 full, then insert the rubber boot and secure the cap.Jan 30, 2011
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595 viewsOnce the clutch slave is bolted down (10 ft-lbs) pre-fill with DOT-4 brake fluid. I used a syringe and found 6cc to be enough to reach the bottom of the threads. Next, remove the banjo fitting from the stock unit and put it on the new one, torquing it down to 23 ft-lbs.Jan 30, 2011
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587 viewsThe stock clutch slave removed. Look at all that black crud! Give the area a good wipe down with a clean rag. Smear grease on the clutch push-rod if you wiped any off. I smeared white lithium grease on the mating surface of my Oberon, mimicking the stock application.Jan 30, 2011
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546 viewsRemove the sprocket cover, only two bolts attach it to the frame. All of the Allen head bolts being removed use the 5mm size. Next, use a 12mm wrench to break the banjo fitting free, then gently tighten it back a little bit to keep it from leaking. This will make it easier to remove it once the stock clutch slave is off the bike.Jan 30, 2011
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603 viewsPut a sheet of plastic wrap, like Saran-wrap, over the rubber plug...Jan 30, 2011
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532 views...and screw the cap back on. This will help keep the DOT-4 fluid from flowing out when you remove the banjo fitting from the stock unit.Jan 30, 2011
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