 Last additions - Ducati |
423 viewsRemove the puny OEM bulb. Carefully put it aside and don't touch the glass. You may want to save it as a spare, just in case.Oct 03, 2014
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430 viewsPush the retaining clip down and then to the top of the light housing, then pivot it up and out of the way to the left side of the light housing.Oct 03, 2014
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438 viewsThe bulb connector pulls straight off. Notice that it is one unit. The high-beam bulb has one connector on the bulb and a separate one on the bulb holder. The high-beam bulb is also smaller. Thus it's easy to determine which bulb is which. However, to give yourself some additional maneuvering room, you may want to disconnect the high-beam connectors and remove the high-beam bulb as well.Oct 03, 2014
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453 viewsRemove the headlight and place on a thick towel. The low-beam is at the top of the headlight, which is the top of this picture. This shows the back removed and the bulb area exposed -- there are 7 screws that hold the back on. The greyish-silver bolt at the 11 o'clock position on the outside edge is the headlight vertical adjustment. To get more operating space inside the housing I rotated mine anti-clockwise 6 turns. Make sure you mark the bolt with a spot on the housing so you know where to return it when everything is all installed.Oct 03, 2014
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414 viewsThis is the complete kit. The flat, squarish box to the left is the ballast while the rectangular box above it is the ignitor. The bulb and wiring is to the right.
For removing the headlight see my album "Diavel headlight film install".Oct 03, 2014
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352 viewsBefore, high-beam.Oct 03, 2014
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362 viewsAfter, high-beam.Oct 03, 2014
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359 viewsBefore, low-beam.Oct 03, 2014
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361 viewsAfter, low-beam.Oct 03, 2014
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370 viewsAfter, high-beam.Oct 03, 2014
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375 viewsBefore, high-beam.Oct 03, 2014
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378 viewsBefore, low-beam.Oct 03, 2014
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357 viewsAfter, low-beam.Oct 03, 2014
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386 viewsAfter, low-beam.Oct 03, 2014
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398 viewsBefore, low-beam. FYI: The ground in these before/after pictures is our asphalt driveway.Oct 03, 2014
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389 viewsTo separate the two electrical connectors simply lift the tab (red arrow) and gently pull the male connector (what I'm holding) from the female (top) (yellow arrows). Oct 03, 2014
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387 viewsTwo terminal connector comes apart just like the three terminal connector.Oct 03, 2014
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329 viewsThe pigtail length I used was 35mm and the red line shows how it's laid inside the seat pan with the resistor wires coming in an OEM hole (arrow) and spliced into it. This is all hidden by the "tool tray". I could've shortened it by a couple centimeters but it works as is.Aug 02, 2014
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327 viewsThe left side mounted. The wiring of the pigtail and such was all pushed forward, thus being outside of the seat pan just like the resistor. The pigtail length was 15cm and that gave plenty of slack to add the resistor leads to.Aug 02, 2014
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327 viewsI made a pigtail bridge, effectively just lengthening the distance between the original electrical plugs. This allows me to put the resistor into the circuit, in parallel. This tricks the ECU into thinking it's running incandescent bulbs & thus keeps it from rapidly flashing (bulb-out warning). I was successful on the right side with using blue splice/snap-lock connectors. The left side it wasn't working so I ended up soldering the resistor leads directly to the bridging wires. Perfect. In hind-sight I should've done this to the right side...oh well, some other day. Coated with liquid electrical tape & then wrapped in real tape.Aug 02, 2014
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