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IMAG1500.jpg
324 viewsReference picture.
22GA wire. How the terminals look and are positioned for insertion (crimps up) into the plastic housing.
Aug 02, 2014
IMAG1499.jpg
323 viewsThe JST electrical connectors/terminals are tiny, delicate, and not easy to get inserted into the plugs. The crimpers on the right are just for these pins and were just over $40, which is CHEAP because the good ones go for over $400.Aug 02, 2014
IMAG1497.jpg
321 viewsHere's what the left bracket looks like. Ugly. But it works, keeping it away from plastics and wires, so that's what matters in the end.Aug 02, 2014
IMAG1496.jpg
325 viewsRemoving the one-way retaining washer is a pain in the butt. Chances are very good that you could end up breaking the pin...not that it's a big deal if that happens, honestly. I did this on the left side to remove the turn signal electrical connector away from the rest of the harness, then pushed the retainer back on.Aug 02, 2014
IMAG1495-1.jpg
329 viewsRemoving the pillion backrest and grab handles is very easy. There are only three, 6mm bolts. One under the seat on each side (red arrow) and the other one is below the back rest mount, center-line of the seat. Be careful when lowering it due to all the wiring. I would also recommend covering the rear fender to protect both pieces from being scratched.Aug 02, 2014
IMAG1493.jpg
328 viewsI originally tapped the existing mounting holes in the resistors with 4M x .7 threads but I decided to add Nyloc nuts to insure nothing came loose. All fasteners I used are stainless steel.Aug 02, 2014
IMAG1494.jpg
329 viewsThe right side mounted. Easy. It hides under the seat base and is away from the seat edge, thus touching nothing.Aug 02, 2014
IMAG1492-1.jpg
333 viewsDue to the accessory plug on the left side the left bracket couldn't be a mirror image of the right side. I ultimately had to weld another piece of metal to bridge the original pieces, moving the resistor mounting plate further inboard and to the rear.Aug 02, 2014
IMAG1490.jpg
333 viewsLeft side are the 'raw' bits that make up the mounts. On the right is the completed right mount.Aug 02, 2014
IMAG1488.jpg
336 viewsThe resistor mounts fit in the groove of the rear rubber seat rests.Aug 02, 2014
IMAG1487-1.jpg
342 views"Tool tray" needs to be removed for tucking the wires in on the right side. There are six of the 4mm fasteners holding it down.Aug 02, 2014
IMAG1486.jpg
332 viewsMy test bracket front an center proved the load resistor worked in keeping the right LED turn signal from flashing fast when engine RPM went above 3000. JST 2-prong electrical terminals and 50W, 6-ohm resistors (one per bulb).Aug 02, 2014
IMAG1264.jpg
340 viewsGrasp the original bulb to gently pull the reflector straight out. I show this angled so the inside end can be seen. Gently push the bulb in just a little bit and then rotate it to remove it. Mine were in there quite snug! The LED unit goes in the same way as the bulb. Put everything back together. Done!Mar 22, 2014
IMAG1263.jpg
335 viewsThe red circled part shows why the lens needs to be angled out when removing it. That hook helps hold the lens in to the housing. The end opposite the hook is where the screw goes.Mar 22, 2014
IMAG1261.jpg
333 viewsPivot the outside of the clear lens a little and then gently pull the lens away from the housing.Mar 22, 2014
IMAG1259.jpg
333 viewsUse a #1 Phillips screwdriver to remove the clear lens retaining screw.Mar 22, 2014
IMAG1258.jpg
332 viewsSize comparison of the incandescent (left) bulb vs. the LED unit (right). Though the LED unit is taller it will still fit inside the signal housing with room to spare.Mar 22, 2014
IMAG1253.jpg
With film applied.341 viewsLow beam (regular OEM bulb) and running light.Mar 15, 2014
IMAG1252.jpg
With film applied.338 viewsRunning light on.Mar 15, 2014
IMAG1251.jpg
With film applied.340 viewsHeadlight and running light off.Mar 15, 2014
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