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2319 viewsHere's what you'll see when you remove the seat. Everything is in the stock location and nicely packaged. The stock location does allow air flow but it's not the greatest.

For clarification, I refer to the regulator/rectifier as "R/R" to keep things short-n-sweet.
2041 viewsUsing a 8mm socket, remove the bolts from the R/R and the two that hold the seat pan to the frame in the rear.
1955 viewsThe cable for the seat release is held in by two very simple compression clips. The cable will pull straight out...
1980 just move it to the side or under the seat pan for the time being.
2020 viewsI used a 3/32" drill bit to make a pilot hole in the captured brass nut. The bottom of the nut is funnel-shaped so the bit will automatically drop to the center.
1907 viewsGently and at medium speed, drill a hole through the center. All the way through. You don't need a big drill either, the brass and plastic will drill easily. Go it!
2480 viewsHere you can see the drilled holes. The left one is after drilling with the larger bit. The right hole is just after I drilled with the pilot bit. I have a light below the seat pan.
1938 viewsHere's the underside of the seat pan after I drilled through with the 3/16" drill bit. the 3/16" bit fits perfectly in the hole and doesn't touch the threads. You want to drill all the way through the pan!
1863 viewsNext, use a 6mm x 1.00 tap to thread the brass and plastic that you drilled through.
1943 viewsMake sure you tap all the way through the hole. You will get a fair amount of brass flakes so be sure to vacuum your mess up! In hindsight, I'd recommend covering your tire and chain guard with a large rag.
2135 viewsThis part is optional but here's what I did. I had some aluminum, butyl-backed tape that's water-proof. I lightly traced the outline of the R/R and cut the tape to slightly larger than the outline. The tape I had is just shy of 2". I used two pieces of the tape, each 4.5" long. I also cleaned the underside of the seat pan with household rubbing alcohol to insure a strong bond.
2113 viewsVideo showing how to lift the seat pan and pass the R/R through.

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2017 viewsTo mount the R/R, I used two 6mm x 1.00 x 25mm stainless steel cap head bolts. Between the R/R and seat pan are two stainless steel washers (same size as the bolts). These act as a spacer to put an air gap between the R/R and the seat pan. Remember, we want air flow all around the R/R so don't mount it flush to the seat pan!

I do NOT recommend using the stock bolts! I used stainless steel since the fasteners will be exposed to the elements and we don't want to deal with rust later on. The bolts are also 5mm longer and this allows more of the bolt to thread into the brass nuts. I also used blue thread locker.
2006 viewsI recommend bolting the seat pan in place before mounting the R/R. It just makes installation much, much easier. As can be seen, the R/R cabling passes through the gap between the forward seat pan clips. You can also clip the seat release cable back in. Don't forget to test fit your Irish Whiskey flask! Very important.
1936 viewsHere it is, mounted and ready for action.
2024 viewsYou can see in this picture that the R/R wiring is protected. Even the R/R is forward of center from the tire so it won't get too abused.
Added: Everything you need to know to mount a MOSFET R/R!1725 viewsHere's the bracket I made from some scrap steel I had. It's 3/16" (5mm) thick. If you use a different thickness just make sure the piece used is thick enough to hold 4 threads at a MINIMUM! You want plenty of fastener thread engagement for the M6x1.00mm tap as that is where one side of the MOSFET R/R will be mounted. The chamfered hole is made with a 17/64" bit and then widened via chamfering. NOTE: Prior to this I had my MOSFET R/R mounted in the stock location with just one bolt and had NO ISSUES with it coming loose/moving.
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