 Last additions - How-to |
342 viewsPlastic pin used to hold the front fascia. Pry the head up...Apr 01, 2012
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Left side shown. Right is just like the left side.351 viewsAfter removing the bumper skin fasteners remove the 10mm bolt and pin retainer. Do this for both sides (remove all fasteners). This will allow the front fascia and bumper skin to be pulled back enough to get to the head lights. The bumper is still attached to the vehicle by lower fasteners but for this situation it doesn't need to be fully removed.Apr 01, 2012
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332 viewsRemove the two screws that attach the wheel well splash guard to the front bumper skin (left side shown).Apr 01, 2012
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Mounting the LED array.396 viewsRemove the bolt that holds the bumper skin to the upper quarter panel (left side shown). It is above the two wheel well screws.Apr 01, 2012
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354 viewsFog harness using a hook on the right side radiator fan surround.Mar 10, 2012
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366 viewsWhere I zip-tied the left side of the harness. It comes down near the radiator over-flow container (the pink bottle). Don't use the aluminum object to the left, that's the heat-sink for the coils!Mar 10, 2012
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413 viewsRight fog bolted in.Mar 10, 2012
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415 viewsFog wiring harness, right side, zip-tie location.Mar 10, 2012
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453 viewsRight fog light installed, front view. Note that adjusting screw is always at the top.Mar 10, 2012
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436 viewsStock fascia blank removed, right side. There are four hooks (one at each corner) that hold it in. After trying to be careful removing the right side, I said to hell with it and cut the tabs on the left side and threw away the blanks.Mar 10, 2012
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408 viewsAll wired up, fog harness plugged in & grounded, and the fuse box ready to be re-installed. I used a stock grounding point under the module per the Routan instructions. The Chrysler instructions show the ground attached to the negative battery cable.Mar 10, 2012
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429 viewsBack side of the right fog light housing.Mar 10, 2012
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384 viewsHow it looks with the plug put all back together.Mar 10, 2012
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386 viewsHow it looks all wired up.Mar 10, 2012
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401 viewsWires snapped in place.Mar 10, 2012
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403 viewsFeed your pigtail wires in, white with yellow stripe on the left in the #16 hole and the white with orange stripe on the right in the #11 hole. The numbers are on the outside of the black plug.Mar 10, 2012
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411 viewsUsing needle-nosed pliers remove the tits from inside the plug backing for the #16 and #11 holes. Don't remove the others as they fill the holes in the seal.Mar 10, 2012
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405 viewsSeparate the bottom plug (black) and the seal (light blue) within. You'll need to unwrap the black electrical tape on the wiring and throw it away. This will give you the needed slack in the wiring.Mar 10, 2012
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412 viewsNext, use a small screwdriver to lift the inner plug out. It only moves a few millimeters so you don't need to completely remove it!Mar 10, 2012
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427 viewsHere's the plug to be modified. I found it unnecessary to remove ALL of the plugs per the instructions but you can. Remember to lift the red tab up to unlock the connector.Mar 10, 2012
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