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Mounting measurements513 viewsAll measurements are from the inside boundaries. Final measurements may slightly differ (~1/8") after bolts are tightened. This won't affect operation.
Drilling requires a 1/2" drill bit for metal. All of the holes in the vise parts are on the large side so there is a little bit of room for small tweaks in mounting positioning.
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511 viewsI chased the clamp bolt holes with a tap to expose the bare metal. I opted to not use the supplied lock washers because I don't like the idea of them digging into the paint and exposing the metal to air and moisture (rust). So ALL fasteners have blue Loctite on them to hold them in place. I used a flat washer under every bolt head and under every nut.
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510 views
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504 viewsWill even work for my son's bicycle :-)
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502 viewsSport bike clamped in without straps.
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482 views
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474 viewsLooking forward, this is the point where the main heater duct connects to the forward 'Y' where some heat can be diverted to the interior floor vent that is between the driver/passenger seats that points into the center of the Bus. Here the flap is closed so all heated air goes to the front of the Bus.
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472 viewsAll connected. Use the Bentley wiring diagram to assist but this is basically how it's wired. Remember, you're simply replacing the vibrator with the VR and using a resistor pack in-line with the fuel gauge sender to bring the voltage down to a reasonable level.
+12V (black wire from gauge cluster) -> VR -> gauge -> resistor pack -> tank sender (brown w/black stripe wire)
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465 viewsWhat it looks like under the dash when put back together. The resistors aren't touching anything and there's no tension on them.
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457 viewsUnder the pedal area. The section behind it isn't insulated yet...
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456 viewsRight fog light installed, front view. Note that adjusting screw is always at the top.
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449 viewsI put a scrap piece of insulation (that I removed from the corner) under the split-loom to fully cover the duct.
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444 viewsAnother view.
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440 viewsStock fascia blank removed, right side. There are four hooks (one at each corner) that hold it in. After trying to be careful removing the right side, I said to hell with it and cut the tabs on the left side and threw away the blanks.
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439 viewsWhat I did was take a short piece of wire and solder it to the pin on the VR and then shrink-wrapped it to keep it insulated. I then crimped a spade connector at the end of the wire. I have a quality (a.k.a. expensive) wire crimper so I know my crimps are good and will last. The right pin (red wire) of the VR connects to the right spade/tab on the fuel gauge. The left pin (black wire) is what gets the +12 volts. Note the spade connetors are being used -- the red wire has a female spade connector and connects to the fuel gauge while the black wire has a male spade connector and is connected to the +12 volt black wire from the gauge cluster.
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433 viewsClose up of mounting the VR to the back of the gauge body.
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432 viewsHere are the resistors...beefy! They are 3 watts each. If you use a smaller wattage resistor they will get hot!! These will get warm but not hot. One is 1-ohm and the other 16-ohms. You wire them in series so you get a total of 17-ohms resistance. So you can use any combination of resistors you want, just shoot for 17-ohms. This puts my gas gauge needle right on the first white mark (left side) of the red Reserve section but the needle will go a little past the Full mark when the tank is topped up. Add more resistance to have the needle move down more but I'm guessing that a total of 20-ohms would be the max to use.
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432 viewsBack side of the right fog light housing.
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431 viewsHere's the plug to be modified. I found it unnecessary to remove ALL of the plugs per the instructions but you can. Remember to lift the red tab up to unlock the connector.
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428 viewsLooking forward at the center section. I clipped off the stock duct zip-ties, wrapped the duct, and then zip-tied the duct back to the mounting points.
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