 Last additions |
402 viewsAfter, high-beam.Oct 03, 2014
|
|
411 viewsBefore, high-beam.Oct 03, 2014
|
|
409 viewsBefore, low-beam.Oct 03, 2014
|
|
396 viewsAfter, low-beam.Oct 03, 2014
|
|
432 viewsAfter, low-beam.Oct 03, 2014
|
|
433 viewsBefore, low-beam. FYI: The ground in these before/after pictures is our asphalt driveway.Oct 03, 2014
|
|
411 viewsTo separate the two electrical connectors simply lift the tab (red arrow) and gently pull the male connector (what I'm holding) from the female (top) (yellow arrows). Oct 03, 2014
|
|
412 viewsTwo terminal connector comes apart just like the three terminal connector.Oct 03, 2014
|
|
350 viewsThe pigtail length I used was 35mm and the red line shows how it's laid inside the seat pan with the resistor wires coming in an OEM hole (arrow) and spliced into it. This is all hidden by the "tool tray". I could've shortened it by a couple centimeters but it works as is.Aug 02, 2014
|
|
356 viewsThe left side mounted. The wiring of the pigtail and such was all pushed forward, thus being outside of the seat pan just like the resistor. The pigtail length was 15cm and that gave plenty of slack to add the resistor leads to.Aug 02, 2014
|
|
354 viewsI made a pigtail bridge, effectively just lengthening the distance between the original electrical plugs. This allows me to put the resistor into the circuit, in parallel. This tricks the ECU into thinking it's running incandescent bulbs & thus keeps it from rapidly flashing (bulb-out warning). I was successful on the right side with using blue splice/snap-lock connectors. The left side it wasn't working so I ended up soldering the resistor leads directly to the bridging wires. Perfect. In hind-sight I should've done this to the right side...oh well, some other day. Coated with liquid electrical tape & then wrapped in real tape.Aug 02, 2014
|
|
362 viewsReference picture.
22GA wire. How the terminals look and are positioned for insertion (crimps up) into the plastic housing.Aug 02, 2014
|
|
359 viewsThe JST electrical connectors/terminals are tiny, delicate, and not easy to get inserted into the plugs. The crimpers on the right are just for these pins and were just over $40, which is CHEAP because the good ones go for over $400.Aug 02, 2014
|
|
347 viewsHere's what the left bracket looks like. Ugly. But it works, keeping it away from plastics and wires, so that's what matters in the end.Aug 02, 2014
|
|
353 viewsRemoving the one-way retaining washer is a pain in the butt. Chances are very good that you could end up breaking the pin...not that it's a big deal if that happens, honestly. I did this on the left side to remove the turn signal electrical connector away from the rest of the harness, then pushed the retainer back on.Aug 02, 2014
|
|
356 viewsRemoving the pillion backrest and grab handles is very easy. There are only three, 6mm bolts. One under the seat on each side (red arrow) and the other one is below the back rest mount, center-line of the seat. Be careful when lowering it due to all the wiring. I would also recommend covering the rear fender to protect both pieces from being scratched.Aug 02, 2014
|
|
348 viewsI originally tapped the existing mounting holes in the resistors with 4M x .7 threads but I decided to add Nyloc nuts to insure nothing came loose. All fasteners I used are stainless steel.Aug 02, 2014
|
|
357 viewsThe right side mounted. Easy. It hides under the seat base and is away from the seat edge, thus touching nothing.Aug 02, 2014
|
|
362 viewsDue to the accessory plug on the left side the left bracket couldn't be a mirror image of the right side. I ultimately had to weld another piece of metal to bridge the original pieces, moving the resistor mounting plate further inboard and to the rear.Aug 02, 2014
|
|
365 viewsLeft side are the 'raw' bits that make up the mounts. On the right is the completed right mount.Aug 02, 2014
|
|
| 3332 files on 167 page(s) |
 |
15 | |
|
