 Last additions - Ducati |
1491 viewsNow insert the right bolt in the R/R and tighten into the seat pan's captured nut. Remove the left bolt, apply Loc-tite (just like the other two fasteners) and tighten it to the bracket. Very snug but not so tight that you strip out the threads in the metal!Jun 01, 2011
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Mounted and wired!1645 viewsThis is how it looks when done.Jun 01, 2011
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1537 viewsNext, loosely put in the left bolt. This will help keep the left R/R hole lined up.Jun 01, 2011
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1551 viewsPosition the bracket with the right bolt, having the hole centered on it. Tighten the counter-sunk bolt (left side) into the bracket and seat pan's captured nut. Remove the bolt from the right side.Jun 01, 2011
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1690 viewsThe MOSFET R/R, painted bracket, and stainless-steel fasteners. Blue Loc-tite is necessary on all three fasteners. The counter-sink bolt uses a 4mm Allen while the two cap bolts use a 5mm Allen wrench.Jun 01, 2011
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Added: Everything you need to know to mount a MOSFET R/R!1911 viewsHere's the bracket I made from some scrap steel I had. It's 3/16" (5mm) thick. If you use a different thickness just make sure the piece used is thick enough to hold 4 threads at a MINIMUM! You want plenty of fastener thread engagement for the M6x1.00mm tap as that is where one side of the MOSFET R/R will be mounted. The chamfered hole is made with a 17/64" bit and then widened via chamfering. NOTE: Prior to this I had my MOSFET R/R mounted in the stock location with just one bolt and had NO ISSUES with it coming loose/moving.Jun 01, 2011
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643 viewsClose-up of the front view installation. Nice and neat, eh?May 14, 2011
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618 viewsFinished view from the left side.May 14, 2011
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509 viewsBreather line re-installed and bracket re-mounted with both oil lines now inside. Now connect the line to the top of the oil cooler and tighten the bottom connection. The connections are snugged to 24 ft-lbs -- that's not very tight so go easy! Again, use both 19mm wrenches to tighten things. Also, smear engine oil on the O-rings before slipping them into the connector. Make sure the insertion is straight and smooth as you do NOT want to tear or pinch them!May 14, 2011
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496 viewsSlide the bracket back down (shown here where it comes from), pop the breather back in the loop, then bolt the bracket back onto the engine.May 14, 2011
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513 viewsHere's both oil lines in the bracket.May 14, 2011
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552 viewsWith patience and a little wiggling, use the screwdriver to help coax the coupling nut into the bracket.May 14, 2011
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607 viewsAttach the Hypermotard line loosely to the engine. Remove the breather bracket from the front left side of the engine (5mm Allen wrench) and then remove the breather line from the bracket. Position the bracket on the existing oil line and insert the new line as shown.May 14, 2011
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576 viewsRags in place to catch oil drippings and the Hypermotard line in position with the goofy bend end resting on the exhaust. Remove the top connection first. This way when you remove the bottom connection you can quickly move the stock line out of the way.May 14, 2011
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592 viewsThis is the end of the oil line that is connected to the output on the engine. Notice that goofy bend? That's what's needed for the line to clear the engine. The only tools needed are two 19mm open-ended wrenches, flat-bladed screwdriver, and a 5mm Allen wrench. Use one wrench to hold the connector nut and the other to remove/replace the oil line coupling nut.May 14, 2011
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703 views...and the Hypermotard oil line path. Neat and tidy!May 14, 2011
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733 viewsStock path of the oil line...May 14, 2011
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295 viewsA look inside. Two styles of 90-degree plugs and connectors. The 180-degree ends are already on the ends and ready for use.May 08, 2011
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272 viewsJust the side of the box. CARB approved for those who have to care.May 08, 2011
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308 viewsWhat was available given the meager selection at the FLAPS which caters to the V8 and truck crowd. 500-ohms per foot is dang good when compared to what Accel wires had and the stock Ducati ones!May 08, 2011
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