 Last additions - Ducati |
2041 viewsMay 04, 2010
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2127 viewsMay 04, 2010
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2211 viewsMay 04, 2010
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2170 viewsHere it is, mounted and ready for action.May 04, 2010
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2240 viewsI recommend bolting the seat pan in place before mounting the R/R. It just makes installation much, much easier. As can be seen, the R/R cabling passes through the gap between the forward seat pan clips. You can also clip the seat release cable back in. Don't forget to test fit your Irish Whiskey flask! Very important.May 04, 2010
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2145 viewsHere's the underside of the seat pan after I drilled through with the 3/16" drill bit. the 3/16" bit fits perfectly in the hole and doesn't touch the threads. You want to drill all the way through the pan!May 04, 2010
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2373 viewsThis part is optional but here's what I did. I had some aluminum, butyl-backed tape that's water-proof. I lightly traced the outline of the R/R and cut the tape to slightly larger than the outline. The tape I had is just shy of 2". I used two pieces of the tape, each 4.5" long. I also cleaned the underside of the seat pan with household rubbing alcohol to insure a strong bond.May 04, 2010
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2251 viewsTo mount the R/R, I used two 6mm x 1.00 x 25mm stainless steel cap head bolts. Between the R/R and seat pan are two stainless steel washers (same size as the bolts). These act as a spacer to put an air gap between the R/R and the seat pan. Remember, we want air flow all around the R/R so don't mount it flush to the seat pan!
I do NOT recommend using the stock bolts! I used stainless steel since the fasteners will be exposed to the elements and we don't want to deal with rust later on. The bolts are also 5mm longer and this allows more of the bolt to thread into the brass nuts. I also used blue thread locker.May 04, 2010
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2071 viewsNext, use a 6mm x 1.00 tap to thread the brass and plastic that you drilled through.May 04, 2010
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2160 viewsMake sure you tap all the way through the hole. You will get a fair amount of brass flakes so be sure to vacuum your mess up! In hindsight, I'd recommend covering your tire and chain guard with a large rag.May 04, 2010
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2722 viewsHere you can see the drilled holes. The left one is after drilling with the larger bit. The right hole is just after I drilled with the pilot bit. I have a light below the seat pan.May 04, 2010
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2226 viewsI used a 3/32" drill bit to make a pilot hole in the captured brass nut. The bottom of the nut is funnel-shaped so the bit will automatically drop to the center.May 04, 2010
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2109 viewsGently and at medium speed, drill a hole through the center. All the way through. You don't need a big drill either, the brass and plastic will drill easily. Go on...do it!May 04, 2010
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2188 views...so just move it to the side or under the seat pan for the time being.May 04, 2010
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2583 viewsHere's what you'll see when you remove the seat. Everything is in the stock location and nicely packaged. The stock location does allow air flow but it's not the greatest.
For clarification, I refer to the regulator/rectifier as "R/R" to keep things short-n-sweet.May 04, 2010
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2160 viewsThe cable for the seat release is held in by two very simple compression clips. The cable will pull straight out...May 04, 2010
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2251 viewsUsing a 8mm socket, remove the bolts from the R/R and the two that hold the seat pan to the frame in the rear.May 04, 2010
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663 viewsFrame slider. I lined up the edge of the tank to the edge of the rear seat to show how far it sticks out. In person it's really not that bad.Apr 14, 2010
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986 viewsI put a yard stick inbetween the gaps to show the distance of the tank to the ground. Just under 5" (five inches). That's pretty good space and if you get a leg stuck it could save that as well.Apr 14, 2010
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624 viewsUhg, look at the left front axle slider...stickin' out like a wart :-(Apr 14, 2010
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