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368 viewsUse a drift to tap out the push rod.Aug 05, 2013
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372 viewsHow it looks using a vice. The push rod is free to move as the socket is resting on the vice clamps.Aug 05, 2013
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378 viewsI used a 5/8" socket to support the bearing so I could drive out the push rod.Aug 05, 2013
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366 viewsThe springs should be no less than 41mm. Mine were at 36mm!Aug 05, 2013
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360 viewsAnother view of the same worn teeth.Aug 05, 2013
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379 viewsThe clutch stack. See how the left edge of the friction plate teeth are worn and hammered.Aug 05, 2013
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345 viewsThese are the inner-most plates. Only slightly less wear than the fronts.Aug 05, 2013
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385 viewsThis is the outer-most friction plate and driven plate. The average thickness of the friction plates was ~2.8mm. They should be replaced if they are less than 3.2mm!Aug 05, 2013
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393 viewsI placed a friction plate back in to measure the gap. I had to use an Allen wrench: 2.5mm. Not good. Max gap is supposed to be no more than 0.6mm!Aug 05, 2013
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392 viewsClutch pack removed. See all those teeth marks? Yeah, that's how a clutch basket SHOULDN'T look! Very worn out.Aug 05, 2013
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377 viewsUnscrew the bolts and remove the spring caps and springs. The pressure plate then pulls straight out and the push rod comes with it.Aug 05, 2013
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390 viewsThe original OEM clutch.Aug 05, 2013
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367 viewsAt the top pulley you mark the replacement belt perfectly with the mark on the old belt. You can now remove the vertical belt and quickly replace it with the new belt, followed by the horizontal belt. Adjust the belt tension and then go ride!Jul 28, 2013
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358 viewsBecause the teeth line up on the center pulley you can place the replacement belt right next to the old belt, lining up the belts tooth to tooth. No need for counting!Jul 28, 2013
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357 viewsWith the horizontal (front) cylinder belt removed I lined up my replacement belt for the vertical cylinder and marked it.Jul 28, 2013
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361 viewsFor the inner belt that runs the vertical (rear) cylinder I made my own mark on the belt and pulley at about the center spot.Jul 28, 2013
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362 viewsLine up the pulley markings with those on the engine case. I used a white grease pencil (china marker) to mark the points on both the case and pulleys for faster visual confirmation. You can see here I drew a line all of the way across the horizontal belt and center pulley as a precaution. I marked the replacement (new) horizontal belt the same way as the vertical belt explained here.Jul 28, 2013
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330 viewsThe turning tool screws in snugly and easily lets you rotate then engine to get the pulleys to TDC (Top Dead Center).Jul 28, 2013
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325 viewsRemove the center cover on the left side to expose the end of the crank. This is what you'll see.Jul 28, 2013
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Done!368 viewsDec 27, 2012
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