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hypermotard_oil_line_005.jpg
677 viewsAttach the Hypermotard line loosely to the engine. Remove the breather bracket from the front left side of the engine (5mm Allen wrench) and then remove the breather line from the bracket. Position the bracket on the existing oil line and insert the new line as shown.May 14, 2011
hypermotard_oil_line_004.jpg
647 viewsRags in place to catch oil drippings and the Hypermotard line in position with the goofy bend end resting on the exhaust. Remove the top connection first. This way when you remove the bottom connection you can quickly move the stock line out of the way.May 14, 2011
hypermotard_oil_line_003.jpg
644 viewsThis is the end of the oil line that is connected to the output on the engine. Notice that goofy bend? That's what's needed for the line to clear the engine. The only tools needed are two 19mm open-ended wrenches, flat-bladed screwdriver, and a 5mm Allen wrench. Use one wrench to hold the connector nut and the other to remove/replace the oil line coupling nut.May 14, 2011
hypermotard_oil_line_002.jpg
743 views...and the Hypermotard oil line path. Neat and tidy!May 14, 2011
hypermotard_oil_line_001.jpg
788 viewsStock path of the oil line...May 14, 2011
new_spark_plugs_c.jpg
333 viewsA look inside. Two styles of 90-degree plugs and connectors. The 180-degree ends are already on the ends and ready for use.May 08, 2011
new_spark_plugs_b.jpg
308 viewsJust the side of the box. CARB approved for those who have to care.May 08, 2011
new_spark_plugs_a.jpg
345 viewsWhat was available given the meager selection at the FLAPS which caters to the V8 and truck crowd. 500-ohms per foot is dang good when compared to what Accel wires had and the stock Ducati ones!May 08, 2011
new_spark_plugs_014.jpg
361 viewsThe core is folded under the wire and the connector firmly crimped, ready for use.May 08, 2011
new_spark_plugs_013.jpg
367 viewsHow the wire and core are positioned in the crimp.May 08, 2011
new_spark_plugs_012.jpg
362 viewsHow the wire will be placed in the connector.May 08, 2011
new_spark_plugs_011.jpg
348 viewsThe 90-degree boot is on the wire and ready to be slid down. As per the instructions, just a spritz (very light coat) of WD-40 really helps move the boot down the wire.May 08, 2011
new_spark_plugs_006.jpg
338 viewsThe front coil. The dull black one to the left is the original Ducati plug wire and my new one is on the right.May 08, 2011
new_spark_plugs_007.jpg
331 viewsShowing the left spark plug wire on the front (horizontal) cylinder. The Taylor kit came with dielectric grease which I smeared on the inside of both end boots. This helps keep moisture out and further insulates things.May 08, 2011
new_spark_plugs_005.jpg
361 viewsJust a very slight bend in the plug wire.May 08, 2011
new_spark_plugs_004.jpg
348 viewsI installed the new wire on the same path as the stock wire, just moved the zip-tie a little closer to the right so the wire wouldn't rub on the oil line fitting. I tried to position the wires from rubbing against any parts.May 08, 2011
new_spark_plugs_001.jpg
324 viewsPut the plug wire on the spark plug and figure out how long you need it. This was a short wire and I had half left over. Motorcycle spark plug wires tend to be shorter than your average V8.May 08, 2011
new_spark_plugs_002.jpg
365 viewsSlipping the boot past the end of the wire can be a little tricky so hemostats are helpful in pulling. Remember to use some WD-40 to help lubricate the wire. The blue crimpers have an MSD die in them for crimping the connectors to the wires. May 08, 2011
LED_parkinglight_012.jpg
374 viewsComparison of the incandescent bulb (left) and the LED replacement (right). Feb 23, 2011
LED_parkinglight_compare3.jpg
In the raw comparison408 viewsComparison of the two bulbs. On the left is the standard incandescent and on the right is the LED unit.Feb 23, 2011
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