Most viewed
2601 viewsHere you can see the drilled holes. The left one is after drilling with the larger bit. The right hole is just after I drilled with the pilot bit. I have a light below the seat pan.
Side bar: Foggy breath guard2458 viewsIt attaches to the chin bar and cheek pads using velcro. It stays put!
2444 viewsHere's what you'll see when you remove the seat. Everything is in the stock location and nicely packaged. The stock location does allow air flow but it's not the greatest.

For clarification, I refer to the regulator/rectifier as "R/R" to keep things short-n-sweet.
2323 viewsShowing the latching mechanism. The lower stud locks into the side tab.
2261 viewsThis part is optional but here's what I did. I had some aluminum, butyl-backed tape that's water-proof. I lightly traced the outline of the R/R and cut the tape to slightly larger than the outline. The tape I had is just shy of 2". I used two pieces of the tape, each 4.5" long. I also cleaned the underside of the seat pan with household rubbing alcohol to insure a strong bond.
2232 viewsVideo showing how to lift the seat pan and pass the R/R through.

See this video on for faster viewing -->
2160 viewsUsing a 8mm socket, remove the bolts from the R/R and the two that hold the seat pan to the frame in the rear.
2142 viewsYou can see in this picture that the R/R wiring is protected. Even the R/R is forward of center from the tire so it won't get too abused.
2141 viewsTo mount the R/R, I used two 6mm x 1.00 x 25mm stainless steel cap head bolts. Between the R/R and seat pan are two stainless steel washers (same size as the bolts). These act as a spacer to put an air gap between the R/R and the seat pan. Remember, we want air flow all around the R/R so don't mount it flush to the seat pan!

I do NOT recommend using the stock bolts! I used stainless steel since the fasteners will be exposed to the elements and we don't want to deal with rust later on. The bolts are also 5mm longer and this allows more of the bolt to thread into the brass nuts. I also used blue thread locker.
2134 viewsI used a 3/32" drill bit to make a pilot hole in the captured brass nut. The bottom of the nut is funnel-shaped so the bit will automatically drop to the center.
2134 viewsI recommend bolting the seat pan in place before mounting the R/R. It just makes installation much, much easier. As can be seen, the R/R cabling passes through the gap between the forward seat pan clips. You can also clip the seat release cable back in. Don't forget to test fit your Irish Whiskey flask! Very important.
2095 just move it to the side or under the seat pan for the time being.
2072 viewsThe cable for the seat release is held in by two very simple compression clips. The cable will pull straight out...
2068 viewsMake sure you tap all the way through the hole. You will get a fair amount of brass flakes so be sure to vacuum your mess up! In hindsight, I'd recommend covering your tire and chain guard with a large rag.
2063 viewsHere it is, mounted and ready for action.
2058 viewsHere's the underside of the seat pan after I drilled through with the 3/16" drill bit. the 3/16" bit fits perfectly in the hole and doesn't touch the threads. You want to drill all the way through the pan!
2020 viewsGently and at medium speed, drill a hole through the center. All the way through. You don't need a big drill either, the brass and plastic will drill easily. Go it!
1981 viewsNext, use a 6mm x 1.00 tap to thread the brass and plastic that you drilled through.
3333 files on 167 page(s) 1