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7694 viewsUse sharp blade to cut away the plastic and bevel the lip (remove sharp edges).
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6692 viewsUse pliers to gently pull the section back. Start from one end and work your way to the other end.
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691 viewsAttach the Hypermotard line loosely to the engine. Remove the breather bracket from the front left side of the engine (5mm Allen wrench) and then remove the breather line from the bracket. Position the bracket on the existing oil line and insert the new line as shown.
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690 views
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8690 viewsThe end result. Removed material should almost be flush with the rubber sealing ring. It's okay and recommended to have it a bit higher than the sealing ring, say, .5mm to 1mm.
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690 viewsThe nice thing with the titanium "colored" Oberon is that its coloration is close to that of the stock unit and thus doesn't stand out.
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686 views
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686 viewsDue to some minor slop in vise, gently press an object in the vise (I used a 2x4) and then tighten the bolts in a star pattern.
While the clamp could be mounted the other direction it would likely interfere with a bike that has deep fenders. Also, the clamp would need to be opened more to allow the axle, calipers, and axle sliders past.
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684 viewsClose-up. The body is metal, the clear cover is a thin plastic material (thin and flexible) and those four forward slots you see are openings.
The sound of the clutch is now quite audible! The stock clutch cover does a good job at keeping the clutch noise down. If you don't like the dry clutch "music" then keep the stock clutch cover on the bike.
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Tail chopped682 views
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680 viewsOnce the clutch slave is bolted down (10 ft-lbs) pre-fill with DOT-4 brake fluid. I used a syringe and found 6cc to be enough to reach the bottom of the threads. Next, remove the banjo fitting from the stock unit and put it on the new one, torquing it down to 23 ft-lbs.
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680 viewsHere is my Sport Classic (sport bike) in the original Harbor Freight clamp that comes with the lift.
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678 views
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678 viewsRags in place to catch oil drippings and the Hypermotard line in position with the goofy bend end resting on the exhaust. Remove the top connection first. This way when you remove the bottom connection you can quickly move the stock line out of the way.
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Monoposto swingarm677 views2006 SportClassic 1000 single-seater
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677 viewsSafe and sound in her new home.
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675 viewsMe explaining to the kids not to touch daddy's new toy because it's worth a LOT of their toys.
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675 views
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Right side675 views
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675 viewsThis is the end of the oil line that is connected to the output on the engine. Notice that goofy bend? That's what's needed for the line to clear the engine. The only tools needed are two 19mm open-ended wrenches, flat-bladed screwdriver, and a 5mm Allen wrench. Use one wrench to hold the connector nut and the other to remove/replace the oil line coupling nut.
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