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632 viewsThis is the starter relay with the OEM cables.
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631 viewsThere she is.
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631 viewsWith patience and a little wiggling, use the screwdriver to help coax the coupling nut into the bracket.
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Mounting measurements630 viewsAll measurements are from the inside boundaries. Final measurements may slightly differ (~1/8") after bolts are tightened. This won't affect operation.
Drilling requires a 1/2" drill bit for metal. All of the holes in the vise parts are on the large side so there is a little bit of room for small tweaks in mounting positioning.
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624 viewsSport bike clamped in without straps.
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623 viewsThe last time I'll see this mess!
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623 viewsHow the back side looks. Pretty darn close to how the stock units look in later cars!
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621 viewsTake your 'new' belts and clean them. Do this by pulling out the belt and securing it with something to keep it from retracting.
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621 views...and screw the cap back on. This will help keep the DOT-4 fluid from flowing out when you remove the banjo fitting from the stock unit.
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621 viewsI chased the clamp bolt holes with a tap to expose the bare metal. I opted to not use the supplied lock washers because I don't like the idea of them digging into the paint and exposing the metal to air and moisture (rust). So ALL fasteners have blue Loctite on them to hold them in place. I used a flat washer under every bolt head and under every nut.
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619 viewsThere are spacers in the gasket and they may come out with the bolt. No big deal, simply pull the spacer off the bolt and put it back into the gasket.
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Back side619 viewsChin bar in rear position.
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619 viewsThe OEM setup. The red line is the stock power cable that comes from the battery to the relay, down the right side of the engine, and under the engine to the starter.
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618 viewsBrooke's sweet ride.
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...after (hi-rise clip-ons).618 views
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Before (stock clip-ons)...614 views
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614 views
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611 viewsWill even work for my son's bicycle :-)
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610 viewsPer's favorite sign.
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609 viewsEatting a pop-sickle...passing time...
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