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t3invasion_p2p.jpg
510 views
seatbelt_001.jpg
509 viewsThe last time I'll see this mess!
hypermotard_oil_line_009.jpg
509 viewsBreather line re-installed and bracket re-mounted with both oil lines now inside. Now connect the line to the top of the oil cooler and tighten the bottom connection. The connections are snugged to 24 ft-lbs -- that's not very tight so go easy! Again, use both 19mm wrenches to tighten things. Also, smear engine oil on the O-rings before slipping them into the connector. Make sure the insertion is straight and smooth as you do NOT want to tear or pinch them!
roof_helmet_004.jpg
508 views
original_05.jpg
507 viewsNice rebuilt fuel injected engine. Automatic kick-down switch missing and she's going to need a new cold-start injector/harness as the previous one was *melted* :-(
01per_raising.jpg
507 viewsPer Lingren spent the week before and after the Invasion at my place. Unfortunately, I had to work during that time so I couldn't show our Norwegian Invasioner much of the area but I was able to have a couple of my friends take him out and show him around. Here he is raising the rear end of my baby in preparation for the Invasion.
06flex_gone.jpg
506 viewsJacob looses his autotranny flex plate just outside of Pendelton. Martin is kind enough to drive his Fasty and let the injured Square use the tow.
IMG_1051.JPG
506 viewsAll connected. Use the Bentley wiring diagram to assist but this is basically how it's wired. Remember, you're simply replacing the vibrator with the VR and using a resistor pack in-line with the fuel gauge sender to bring the voltage down to a reasonable level.
+12V (black wire from gauge cluster) -> VR -> gauge -> resistor pack -> tank sender (brown w/black stripe wire)
rizoma_cover_006.jpg
504 viewsPut some blue Loctite on the bolt threads and snug the new cover back on. No need to be a gorilla and wrench down! The blue Loctite will insure the bolts don't back out. Here it is, installed.
cleaning_seatbelts_003.jpg
501 viewsTake your 'new' belts and clean them. Do this by pulling out the belt and securing it with something to keep it from retracting.
seatbelt_017.jpg
501 viewsNow that's what I'm talkin' about! Clean!
grips_slapper_025.jpg
498 viewsI used a scrap piece of the 3M film to make a surround for the body work around ignition cylinder.
hypermotard_oil_line_008.jpg
497 viewsSlide the bracket back down (shown here where it comes from), pop the breather back in the loop, then bolt the bracket back onto the engine.
02tommy_per.jpg
495 viewsHere is Per trying an American beer while Tommy Fat Cheeks waits patiently for a cheek scratchin'.
seatbelt_012.jpg
493 viewsThis is the way you would actually do it; mount the retractor first THEN bolt the bracket and lower outside mount to the body. These two bolts should be tightened firmly but not by a gorilla i.e. don't over do it!
12nyssa1.jpg
493 viewsPhoto opportunity in Nyssa (caravan after day 1 show). 22 cars total!
seatbelt_004.jpg
491 viewsThe ugly stock belts and latches are removed.
Bus_heat_001.jpg
490 viewsLooking forward, this is the point where the main heater duct connects to the forward 'Y' where some heat can be diverted to the interior floor vent that is between the driver/passenger seats that points into the center of the Bus. Here the flap is closed so all heated air goes to the front of the Bus.
seatbelt_014.jpg
489 viewsJust a back-side shot of the 12mm bolts poking out the back. 10mm would be the perfect size but the hardware store I went to didn't have that size. The bolts should be M8x10 with 1.25mm thread pitch.
IMG_1060.JPG
489 viewsWhat it looks like under the dash when put back together. The resistors aren't touching anything and there's no tension on them.
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