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626 viewsAll connected. Use the Bentley wiring diagram to assist but this is basically how it's wired. Remember, you're simply replacing the vibrator with the VR and using a resistor pack in-line with the fuel gauge sender to bring the voltage down to a reasonable level.
+12V (black wire from gauge cluster) -> VR -> gauge -> resistor pack -> tank sender (brown w/black stripe wire)
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626 viewsPut some blue Loctite on the bolt threads and snug the new cover back on. No need to be a gorilla and wrench down! The blue Loctite will insure the bolts don't back out. Here it is, installed.
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626 viewsBilt Helmet, Fly Racing Youth Barricade Long Sleeve Body Armor Suit (really just an armored mesh jacket), Bilt gloves, and Alpinestars knee & shin armor.
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625 viewsBoth of the brackets after fabrication.
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625 viewsPer Lingren spent the week before and after the Invasion at my place. Unfortunately, I had to work during that time so I couldn't show our Norwegian Invasioner much of the area but I was able to have a couple of my friends take him out and show him around. Here he is raising the rear end of my baby in preparation for the Invasion.
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625 viewsHere's both oil lines in the bracket.
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625 viewsLooking down into the bulb housing cavity. The reflector will need to be moved forward just a tad, like a couple millimeters, to clear the taller HID bulb. If you get flickering or the bulb doesn't light up after installing the HID bulb then chances are good that the bulb is touching the reflector and shorting out.
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623 viewsThe ugly stock belts and latches are removed.
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623 viewsBreather line re-installed and bracket re-mounted with both oil lines now inside. Now connect the line to the top of the oil cooler and tighten the bottom connection. The connections are snugged to 24 ft-lbs -- that's not very tight so go easy! Again, use both 19mm wrenches to tighten things. Also, smear engine oil on the O-rings before slipping them into the connector. Make sure the insertion is straight and smooth as you do NOT want to tear or pinch them!
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622 viewsThis is how you begin to stuff the electronics into the headlight bucket. Follow along...
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620 viewsI used a scrap piece of the 3M film to make a surround for the body work around ignition cylinder.
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619 viewsJacob looses his autotranny flex plate just outside of Pendelton. Martin is kind enough to drive his Fasty and let the injured Square use the tow.
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618 viewsThis is the way you would actually do it; mount the retractor first THEN bolt the bracket and lower outside mount to the body. These two bolts should be tightened firmly but not by a gorilla i.e. don't over do it!
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618 viewsBella's heartbeat for Mimi.
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618 views
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Before...617 views
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615 viewsHere's my 2006 Ducati Sport Classic 1000, monoposto (single seat), with the stock dry clutch cover.
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614 viewsFirst, remove the two acorn nuts from the bottom of the headlight fairing. The order is nut, washer, fairing mount, then star-washer. Strada owners should remove the windscreen for easier access to everything. Next, snip the zip-tie on the left side that holds the two cables that feed the headlight. The cable holder is on the frame head. The two headlight cables are below it and towards the center rear of the frame head. That yellowish connector you see below the snips is one of them.
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Front view, half and half614 viewsMy little helper showing the bottom tinted and the top untinted.
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614 viewsPush the retaining clip down and then to the top of the light housing, then pivot it up and out of the way to the left side of the light housing.
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