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414 views
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414 viewsTommy Fat Cheeks sitting in the hallway opening.
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414 views
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414 viewsThis next sequence shows how I insulated the loop that feeds the main cabin (as opposed to the section that feeds the driver's cabin). Put an 18" rectangle of the insulation above the duct, cut a slit, and wrap the duct that feeds the cabin. Thus, I worked backwards, insulating the right arm of the Y-duct last (if laying on your back and looking up).
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414 viewsView of the Y-section taken from the left side.
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413 views
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413 viewsA sign of things to come.
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413 viewsAfter, low-beam.
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Mounting the LED array.412 viewsRemove the bolt that holds the bumper skin to the upper quarter panel (left side shown). It is above the two wheel well screws.
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Night example.412 viewsNight time example of turn signals. Also on YouTube.com at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uAUECRUXoQo&list=UUhzs41pIUb_YugBfXOWUwvw&index=3&feature=plcp
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411 views
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Fogs comparison with low beams on411 viewsLeft picture is with the fogs off -- Right picture is with the fogs on.
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410 viewsOEM 12T on the left, EVR 48T on the right.
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410 viewsThe improved squeegee in action, applying the bottom tint first.
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Left side410 views
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409 viewsNotice that I put a length of split-loom over the cable and wrapped the insulation over it. Again, the split-loom keep the cable from cutting into the insulation.
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409 views
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409 viewsView from the driver's seat with the fogs on. Notice the green "fog lights on" indicator to the right of the speedometer and below the red "fasten seat belt" indicator. I just finished adjusting the fog lights. The top of the light you see on the building wall is 14". If I went by the instructions it would've been 13" but I wanted just a little more distance.
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408 views
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408 views
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