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402 viewsI used "Plasti Dip" over the joint as it's an electrical insulator and will protect the joint. It's thick and simply paints on.
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Before...402 views
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402 viewsHi-riser is slipped on the fork tube and here is the bar in stock form.
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402 viewsHow it looks with the plug put all back together.
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Front view, half and half402 viewsMy little helper showing the bottom tinted and the top untinted.
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401 viewsParked at her new home.
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401 viewsThe right side fully wrapped with no problem. By the way, I'd recommend disconnecting the battery when working on the Y-section and back (like this part) as the insulation can conduct electricity and there is the starter chillin' out there, with it's +12v constant supply just waiting for some action ;-)
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401 viewsEmpty clutch housing, ready for the new unit.
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Side view, half and half401 viewsLower half with lightest tint applied, LED and top have no film on them.
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401 viewsPut the electrical connectors back together. They only go on one way so it's pretty much idiot-resistant. The 2-pin goes on first. Notice the positioning.
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399 viewsCorner view.
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399 viewsWhen the engine is out you can weld/replace the rear trunk pivots. Oh what joy.
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399 viewsI wasn't able to fully wrap this piece. It was a real pain to get the insulation on top of it. Since it is already insulated from the factory I didn't worry much about cutting up some insulation and wrapping the bottom. Maybe at a later date. Notice that I did put an 18" sheet across the top of the heat exchanger ducts that go over the torsion housing. What a pain in the neck! Trying to wrap this section wasn't worth it, with the tubes, guides, wires, and shifter parts all in the way -- very busy area!
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399 viewsStock, non-fog light switch.
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399 viewsBefore, low-beam.
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399 viewsNotice that the ballast (flat, squarish box) is going in first and the ignitor (long rectangular box) is still outside.
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398 views3-pin connecter goes on next. Notice the positioning.
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Applying the LED array to the head light.397 viewsI started from the top (right side of picture) and carefully removed the LED backing tape as I move towards the front of the head light. Just eye-balled the application but kept it more towards the inside of the light (engine side). This allows more light to be spread out onto the head light lens and disperse the light. I put a rubber tube around the wires to protect them from chaffing against the metal. Be sure to clean the lens well! I used rubbing alcohol and a clean rag.
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397 viewsTa-da!
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396 views
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