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536 viewsStock, non-fog light switch.
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536 viewsNew light switch plugged in. See the red tab? It's in the 'unlocked' position...
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535 viewsBedroom side during construction.
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535 viewsIt may not be necessary but I wanted to make sure my ballast wouldn't move around so this is what I did. I cut a notch at the top and bottom of the hourglass brace that the zip-tie would neatly fit in to. This will keep the zip-tie from slipping and thus keep a firm hold on the ballast. A sharp X-acto knife will easily cut through the plastic so operate slowly and carefully.
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534 viewsTommy Fat Cheeks sitting in the hallway opening.
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Day-time, parking lamp only534 viewsComparison of the two bulbs. On the left is the standard incandescent and on the right is the LED unit.
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Mounting the LED array.534 viewsRemove the bolt that holds the bumper skin to the upper quarter panel (left side shown). It is above the two wheel well screws.
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533 viewsWhere I zip-tied the left side of the harness. It comes down near the radiator over-flow container (the pink bottle). Don't use the aluminum object to the left, that's the heat-sink for the coils!
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533 viewsThe springs should be no less than 41mm. Mine were at 36mm!
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533 viewsBefore, low-beam.
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532 views
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532 viewsPut the electrical connectors back together. They only go on one way so it's pretty much idiot-resistant. The 2-pin goes on first. Notice the positioning.
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532 viewsDone! I used a piece of wire sleeve tubing (that black ribbed bit) to protect the power wires from rubbing against the zip-tie and hourglass brace. Most likely it's not necessary but while I was in there...just in case....
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Before...531 views
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531 viewsHi-riser is slipped on the fork tube and here is the bar in stock form.
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531 viewsUse a #1 Phillips screwdriver to remove the clear lens retaining screw.
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530 views
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530 views
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530 viewsThe resistor mounts fit in the groove of the rear rubber seat rests.
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530 viewsAfter, high-beam.
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