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385 viewsEnjoying the Oregon coast with the Li'l Monkey.
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384 views
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384 viewsDetail of the top triple tree with stock clip-ons.
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384 viewsConnect the ignitor wires to the bulb. One thing I did to make this wiring install easier is to remove the weather seal that holds the 4 wires. Since everything is contained within the headlight bucket there's no need for the wiring seal. Carefully use a sharp blade, like a crescent X-acto blade, to cut the seal and remove the wiring.
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383 views
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383 viewsHere's the VR (voltage regulator) information. This is what you need. I got mine for $3.15 at Norvac Electronics, Inc. You can also get it at Fry's. NTE1932, IC voltage regulator, positive 10-volts, 1-amp.
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383 viewsWhere I zip-tied the left side of the harness. It comes down near the radiator over-flow container (the pink bottle). Don't use the aluminum object to the left, that's the heat-sink for the coils!
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382 viewsCleaning, medicating, etc.
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382 viewsSince I wouldn't be using any of my original plates I used one as a lock to hold the clutch drum so I could remove the center retaining bolt.
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382 views
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382 viewsInstalled and ready to ride!
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381 viewsRemoving the spacer.
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381 viewsAfter, low-beam.
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381 viewsThis is how it should look when done. The hard part of this install has been completed!
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380 views
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380 viewsRuss and Jim A. sit patiently in the shade while John Jarenson gives his tech session on composites. The goober pointing at the table is none other than Brian Fye, the master-mind behind the T3 Invasion!
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380 views
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Day-time, parking lamp only380 viewsComparison of the two bulbs. On the left is the standard incandescent and on the right is the LED unit.
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...after.380 views
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380 viewsThe clutch stack. See how the left edge of the friction plate teeth are worn and hammered.
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