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368 views
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368 views…and what it looks like during operation.
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Left side shown. Right is just like the left side.368 viewsAfter removing the bumper skin fasteners remove the 10mm bolt and pin retainer. Do this for both sides (remove all fasteners). This will allow the front fascia and bumper skin to be pulled back enough to get to the head lights. The bumper is still attached to the vehicle by lower fasteners but for this situation it doesn't need to be fully removed.
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Done!368 views
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368 viewsLine up the pulley markings with those on the engine case. I used a white grease pencil (china marker) to mark the points on both the case and pulleys for faster visual confirmation. You can see here I drew a line all of the way across the horizontal belt and center pulley as a precaution. I marked the replacement (new) horizontal belt the same way as the vertical belt explained here.
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368 viewsThe end result, push rod out.
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367 viewsSeeing if my Bosch fuel injection tester works, using Lawrence's Square as a guinea pig. How the unit is interfaced…
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LED dual-element array (alternating white and amber LEDs).367 viewsCut the other end to the desired length or to simply remove the other wires. Use some heat-shrink at the end to seal it from the elements. I left a little over-hang and then bent the heat-shrink back on itself, then gently clamped with some needle-nose pliers.
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367 viewsShowing how the make connector fits on the tap-in. For the LED wires use RED connectors! I use a professional crimper to give me consistent, quality crimps. Because the LED wire was so small I strip away about 1/2" of the insulation and then fold the wire back on itself, then insert it into the connector. This allows more material (wire) to fill the space and make a more solid connection & crimp. The black 'goo' is dried liquid electrical tape. I also use electrical tape on the connector and wire to help protect the connector from collecting water.
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DRL LED stealing the spotlight from the turn signal.367 viewsMy current issue is the super bright DRL LEDs washing out the amber turn signal LEDs as shown in this video. Also on YouTube at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00wxGYhHd0k&list=UUhzs41pIUb_YugBfXOWUwvw&index=1&feature=plcp
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367 viewsI used my engine hoist to lift my bike by the frame. I'm so glad I have this! This was necessary to get the full extension sag measurement as well as lifting the bike to take pressure off the lower bolt so it could be removed.
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366 views
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366 viewsSpirit-level on the shift plate on the shift tunnel to show how much my car is raked. As you can see, it's very mild so the engine is pretty close to the same level as the pan.
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366 viewsFor the inner belt that runs the vertical (rear) cylinder I made my own mark on the belt and pulley at about the center spot.
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366 viewsThe springs should be no less than 41mm. Mine were at 36mm!
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366 viewsPush the power supply wires into the original headlight bulb connector.
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366 viewsBearing grease (red) applied on the planetary teeth for mating to the rearward gear. I followed the instructions for the "new" teeth so I hope this is okay for the "old" teeth. I think it should be.
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365 viewsFirst bath.
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365 viewsXentec - The kit I used. Also, remove the DRL (Daytime Running Lights) relay, #173. It's located where the fuses are but a little deeper behind the dashboard -- it easily pulls straight out. Yes, you'll have to manually turn on your lights when you drive now. You can drive with the relay intact and the lights will come one (well, ours did), but the HIDs are getting a reduced voltage and may not turn on, they could even turn off while driving due to the reduced voltage feeding them. By removing the relay you insure that they get full voltage when you turn on the headlights.
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365 viewsWhen attaching the switch housing make sure to line up the housing pin to the hole in the handle bar.
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