 Most viewed |
496 viewsThe red circled part shows why the lens needs to be angled out when removing it. That hook helps hold the lens in to the housing. The end opposite the hook is where the screw goes.
|
|
495 views
|
|
495 views
|
|
495 viewsUse a Phillips screwdriver to remove the retaining screw at the bottom of the headlamp. No need to completely remove the screw, just until it becomes loose & wobbly.
|
|
495 viewsRight side ground...had to use a 10mm box wrench (spanner).
|
|
495 viewsReference picture.
22GA wire. How the terminals look and are positioned for insertion (crimps up) into the plastic housing.
|
|
494 viewsRuss and Jim A. sit patiently in the shade while John Jarenson gives his tech session on composites. The goober pointing at the table is none other than Brian Fye, the master-mind behind the T3 Invasion!
|
|
Day 3494 viewsTried snorkeling again. Fail.
|
|
493 viewsEverybody making a silly face.
|
|
493 viewsMy li'l Trini girl in heaven.
|
|
493 viewsThose late night feedings can be tough!
|
|
493 views
|
|
493 views
|
|
493 viewsHome-made gasket made from 1/32" rubberized gasket material from the FLAPS.
|
|
493 viewsHere the flapper is opened all of the way so all of the heated air goes into the Bus interior. This system is used by all the Types of engines (Type I/II, III, & IV).
|
|
492 viewsCarvin' 'em up!
|
|
492 views
|
|
492 viewsWatching Bella unwrap presents.
|
|
492 viewsMy test bracket front an center proved the load resistor worked in keeping the right LED turn signal from flashing fast when engine RPM went above 3000. JST 2-prong electrical terminals and 50W, 6-ohm resistors (one per bulb).
|
|
492 viewsTo make it a little easier getting both of the HID wires into the small space I put a single loop in the wire, as shown. Then stuff it in there with the red wire.
|
|
| 3332 files on 167 page(s) |
 |
34 | |
|
