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340 views
T-lines_003.jpg
340 viewsWhat you need: A barbed "T"-fitting that's 1/4" at each end. I used an 8" piece of fuel line instead of cutting the original drainage hose.
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340 viewsOEM DRL on.
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339 viewsEntries 1-25.
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338 viewsFinished. View from roof.
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Through the rubber cover338 viewsThe following is the method I used on the left side after trying the right side by using the hard cover (described after this procedure). This is SO much easier to install and route wires, however, you MUST make sure you seal the gasket to the rubber boot so as to keep water out. I personally think this is the best way to do it with the kit I used.

I used a scrap piece of cardboard, cut in a 7/8" diameter circle, and traced the back side of the low beam rubber cover using a permanent marker.
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338 viewsComparison of the incandescent bulb (left) and the LED replacement (right).
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338 viewsI used the hole in the pressure plate...
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337 viewsEither slide the arm out from the bracket or slightly pull down and towards you to release from lifter channel.
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337 viewsOther side of the bar showing the locating pin and hole.
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Reference shot337 viewsRear mounted gear box. On left side of trailer looking to the right side.
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336 views
window_crank_012.jpg
336 viewsInsert winding mechanisim, lower glass a little, and slide locating spring into lifter channel (wire brush just used to hold window up for picture). Bolt winding mechanisim back to door. Replace everything, including the important vapor barrier (plastic sheet) as this protects the door card from water damage!
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