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439 viewsLocation where I placed the left side electronics. Attached by using the supplied double-sided tape (strong stuff!).
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439 viewsI installed the new wire on the same path as the stock wire, just moved the zip-tie a little closer to the right so the wire wouldn't rub on the oil line fitting. I tried to position the wires from rubbing against any parts.
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439 viewsThe fuse tab plugged in and with the stock 20A fuse in the BOTTOM. The top fuse will be a 1A to 3A item -- what ever is the smallest I can find -- since the LED array doesn't pull an appreciable amount of current.
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438 viewsMondial hardtop.
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438 views
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438 viewsMadalyn, Ronin and Lindsay
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438 viewsYup, same sunset.
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437 viewsAdded flanges to lower muffler-to-heat-exchanger pipes. Was previously "fixed" by welding the muffler to the exchanger. Thin metal sections strengthened where needed (holey) and tack welds added to keep parts from loosening.
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437 viewsEngine of the Ferrari 400i Straman conversion.This is the original picture...
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437 viewsRonin getting checked out in NICU. 4.09MB
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437 viewsFold out table.
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Through the rubber cover437 viewsThe following is the method I used on the left side after trying the right side by using the hard cover (described after this procedure). This is SO much easier to install and route wires, however, you MUST make sure you seal the gasket to the rubber boot so as to keep water out. I personally think this is the best way to do it with the kit I used.
I used a scrap piece of cardboard, cut in a 7/8" diameter circle, and traced the back side of the low beam rubber cover using a permanent marker.
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437 viewsMy kit came with holders that the wires clip into -- notice the orientation of the tang, it faces inside so it will lock in place.
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437 viewsNotes: The instructions say to clean the area with brake cleaner and scuff the area. Because I'm using the TankSlapper to protect my tank I didn't do either but I did clean the area on the TankSlapper well.
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436 views
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436 viewsGroup picture.
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436 views2-person seat installed, yeay!!
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