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399 viewsIn order to remove the upper triple-tree the headlight needs to be removed and then the U-shaped ladder part that the headlight attaches to is then removed. Remove the two nuts at the bottom of the ladder then lift it up. Also, disconnect the headlight connector and put the headlight out of the way.
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398 viewsConnect the ignitor wires to the bulb. One thing I did to make this wiring install easier is to remove the weather seal that holds the 4 wires. Since everything is contained within the headlight bucket there's no need for the wiring seal. Carefully use a sharp blade, like a crescent X-acto blade, to cut the seal and remove the wiring.
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396 viewsDetail of the top triple tree with stock clip-ons.
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396 viewsPush the power supply wires into the original headlight bulb connector.
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396 viewsFor safety I wrapped each connector in electrical tape and then wrapped them together as well.
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395 viewsBefore, high-beam.
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394 viewsThis is the outer-most friction plate and driven plate. The average thickness of the friction plates was ~2.8mm. They should be replaced if they are less than 3.2mm!
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Day-time, parking lamp only393 viewsComparison of the two bulbs. On the left is the standard incandescent and on the right is the LED unit.
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Before...393 viewsYard stick shows 32" at bar-end mirror mount.
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393 viewsMy fingers are pointing to the two pins that fit into the two rubber grommets that are part of the upper triple tree (visible in the foreground).
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393 viewsConnect the wires to the power plug. Now all the ignitor and ballast wires are attached so you can push them further into and down inside the headlight bucket. Now you can loop in the other zip-tie to secure the ballast, cutting notches in the hourglass brace like I did if you want. If you removed the high-beam bulb you can now put it back in, along with its wires.
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...after.392 views
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392 viewsHere's how the clutch basket looked. Those streaks are LOTS of thread locker applied at the factory. It leaked out the back side as well. After removing the eight retaining bolts I had to use a drift and tap a couple of the ears on the basket to gently break it free.
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392 views
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391 viewsRemoving the spacer.
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390 views
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390 viewsThe clutch stack. See how the left edge of the friction plate teeth are worn and hammered.
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389 viewsI used a 5/8" socket to support the bearing so I could drive out the push rod.
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389 viewsSince I wouldn't be using any of my original plates I used one as a lock to hold the clutch drum so I could remove the center retaining bolt.
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389 viewsThe red wire for the HID bulb is pushed into the top of the headlight bucket. The blue wire that I'm holding will be next.
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