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IMAG0792.jpg
380 viewsThe clutch stack. See how the left edge of the friction plate teeth are worn and hammered.
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380 viewsConnect the ignitor wires to the bulb. One thing I did to make this wiring install easier is to remove the weather seal that holds the 4 wires. Since everything is contained within the headlight bucket there's no need for the wiring seal. Carefully use a sharp blade, like a crescent X-acto blade, to cut the seal and remove the wiring.
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380 viewsInstalled and ready to ride!
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Day-time, parking lamp only379 viewsComparison of the two bulbs. On the left is the standard incandescent and on the right is the LED unit.
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Before...379 viewsYard stick shows 32" at bar-end mirror mount.
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379 viewsRemoving the spacer.
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379 viewsAfter, low-beam.
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379 viewsThis is how it should look when done. The hard part of this install has been completed!
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378 viewsI used a 5/8" socket to support the bearing so I could drive out the push rod.
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377 views
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377 viewsMy fingers are pointing to the two pins that fit into the two rubber grommets that are part of the upper triple tree (visible in the foreground).
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377 viewsUnscrew the bolts and remove the spring caps and springs. The pressure plate then pulls straight out and the push rod comes with it.
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376 viewsBefore, high-beam.
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376 viewsI tucked the headlight connector into the middle left side of the headlight, below the white headlight adjustment mechanism. If you adjusted the headlight vertical adjustment earlier this is when you will want to return it back to its original position, rotating it clockwise.
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375 viewsDone! I used a piece of wire sleeve tubing (that black ribbed bit) to protect the power wires from rubbing against the zip-tie and hourglass brace. Most likely it's not necessary but while I was in there...just in case....
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...after.374 views
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374 viewsIt may not be necessary but I wanted to make sure my ballast wouldn't move around so this is what I did. I cut a notch at the top and bottom of the hourglass brace that the zip-tie would neatly fit in to. This will keep the zip-tie from slipping and thus keep a firm hold on the ballast. A sharp X-acto knife will easily cut through the plastic so operate slowly and carefully.
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372 viewsHow it looks using a vice. The push rod is free to move as the socket is resting on the vice clamps.
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372 viewsConnect the wires to the power plug. Now all the ignitor and ballast wires are attached so you can push them further into and down inside the headlight bucket. Now you can loop in the other zip-tie to secure the ballast, cutting notches in the hourglass brace like I did if you want. If you removed the high-beam bulb you can now put it back in, along with its wires.
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371 viewsNow the bar-end mount is up two inches at 34" high.
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