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IMAG1253.jpg
With film applied.408 viewsLow beam (regular OEM bulb) and running light.
LED_parkinglight_compare3.jpg
In the raw comparison407 viewsComparison of the two bulbs. On the left is the standard incandescent and on the right is the LED unit.
IMAG1500.jpg
407 viewsReference picture.
22GA wire. How the terminals look and are positioned for insertion (crimps up) into the plastic housing.
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...after.406 viewsThe bottom of the switch is at 36".
LED_parkinglight_007.jpg
405 viewsUse a Phillips screwdriver to remove the retaining screw at the bottom of the headlamp. No need to completely remove the screw, just until it becomes loose & wobbly.
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404 viewsHi-risers and controls installed, ready to put the bike back together.
Duc_model_015.jpg
403 views
IMAG1258.jpg
403 viewsSize comparison of the incandescent (left) bulb vs. the LED unit (right). Though the LED unit is taller it will still fit inside the signal housing with room to spare.
IMG_2566.JPG
402 views
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Detail 1402 viewsOEM Sachs on top (black spring) and Ohlins racing on the bottom (yellow spring).
IMAG0836.jpg
402 viewsHow it looks using a vice. The push rod is free to move as the socket is resting on the vice clamps.
IMAG1487-1.jpg
401 views"Tool tray" needs to be removed for tucking the wires in on the right side. There are six of the 4mm fasteners holding it down.
IMAG1261.jpg
400 viewsPivot the outside of the clear lens a little and then gently pull the lens away from the housing.
IMAG1486.jpg
399 viewsMy test bracket front an center proved the load resistor worked in keeping the right LED turn signal from flashing fast when engine RPM went above 3000. JST 2-prong electrical terminals and 50W, 6-ohm resistors (one per bulb).
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398 viewsLower bolt. Use a 10mm Allen wrench to remove the bolts. Though they already have molyb (grease B using Ducati nomenclature) smeared on them I (later) added a little bit more.
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398 viewsI used the top of the hole in the bolt where the Allen wrench entered.
IMAG1496.jpg
398 viewsRemoving the one-way retaining washer is a pain in the butt. Chances are very good that you could end up breaking the pin...not that it's a big deal if that happens, honestly. I did this on the left side to remove the turn signal electrical connector away from the rest of the harness, then pushed the retainer back on.
IMAG1263.jpg
396 viewsThe red circled part shows why the lens needs to be angled out when removing it. That hook helps hold the lens in to the housing. The end opposite the hook is where the screw goes.
T-lines_002.jpg
395 viewsI'm holding the hose that I'm going to merge and thus remove. The one near the bottom of the picture with the brass hose clamp is the hose that will remain and thus serve as the bleed and drainage line.
T-lines_001.jpg
393 viewsThis is the drainage hose that I'm removing. I'm just going to tee it into the existing bleed hose, that's all.
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