 Most viewed - Ducati |
With film applied.351 viewsHeadlight and running light off.
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351 viewsLeft side are the 'raw' bits that make up the mounts. On the right is the completed right mount.
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351 viewsThe spade connectors snap in. If they are difficult to get out (at a later date, say, when replacing the bulb) you may want to use a thin, flat-bladed screwdriver to push the spade away from the female contact as shown.
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350 viewsThe red circled part shows why the lens needs to be angled out when removing it. That hook helps hold the lens in to the housing. The end opposite the hook is where the screw goes.
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350 viewsThe right side mounted. Easy. It hides under the seat base and is away from the seat edge, thus touching nothing.
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349 viewsI used the top of the hole in the bolt where the Allen wrench entered.
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349 viewsSize comparison of the incandescent (left) bulb vs. the LED unit (right). Though the LED unit is taller it will still fit inside the signal housing with room to spare.
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349 viewsUse a #1 Phillips screwdriver to remove the clear lens retaining screw.
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349 viewsPivot the outside of the clear lens a little and then gently pull the lens away from the housing.
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349 viewsMy test bracket front an center proved the load resistor worked in keeping the right LED turn signal from flashing fast when engine RPM went above 3000. JST 2-prong electrical terminals and 50W, 6-ohm resistors (one per bulb).
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348 viewsI'm holding the hose that I'm going to merge and thus remove. The one near the bottom of the picture with the brass hose clamp is the hose that will remain and thus serve as the bleed and drainage line.
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With film applied.347 viewsRunning light on.
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347 viewsRemoving the pillion backrest and grab handles is very easy. There are only three, 6mm bolts. One under the seat on each side (red arrow) and the other one is below the back rest mount, center-line of the seat. Be careful when lowering it due to all the wiring. I would also recommend covering the rear fender to protect both pieces from being scratched.
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347 viewsRemoving the one-way retaining washer is a pain in the butt. Chances are very good that you could end up breaking the pin...not that it's a big deal if that happens, honestly. I did this on the left side to remove the turn signal electrical connector away from the rest of the harness, then pushed the retainer back on.
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347 viewsI made a pigtail bridge, effectively just lengthening the distance between the original electrical plugs. This allows me to put the resistor into the circuit, in parallel. This tricks the ECU into thinking it's running incandescent bulbs & thus keeps it from rapidly flashing (bulb-out warning). I was successful on the right side with using blue splice/snap-lock connectors. The left side it wasn't working so I ended up soldering the resistor leads directly to the bridging wires. Perfect. In hind-sight I should've done this to the right side...oh well, some other day. Coated with liquid electrical tape & then wrapped in real tape.
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346 viewsHere's the hoses merged together. Cut the bleed hose about 6" down and insert the horizontal part of the tee. Connect the 8" hose. Done!
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346 viewsHi-risers and controls installed, ready to put the bike back together.
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346 viewsThese are the inner-most plates. Only slightly less wear than the fronts.
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346 viewsReference picture.
22GA wire. How the terminals look and are positioned for insertion (crimps up) into the plastic housing.
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Detail 1345 viewsOEM Sachs on top (black spring) and Ohlins racing on the bottom (yellow spring).
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