 Most viewed - Ducati |
367 viewsThe red circled part shows why the lens needs to be angled out when removing it. That hook helps hold the lens in to the housing. The end opposite the hook is where the screw goes.
|
|
366 viewsThe "OUT" port is on the right side of the tank and this is where the fuel is outputted to the fuel injectors. The "IN" port is where the fuel is pushed back into the tank/pump. At the end of the IN port, inside the tank, is the pressure regulator.
|
|
366 viewsLower bolt. Use a 10mm Allen wrench to remove the bolts. Though they already have molyb (grease B using Ducati nomenclature) smeared on them I (later) added a little bit more.
|
|
366 viewsAnother view of the same worn teeth.
|
|
366 viewsPivot the outside of the clear lens a little and then gently pull the lens away from the housing.
|
|
366 viewsRemoving the one-way retaining washer is a pain in the butt. Chances are very good that you could end up breaking the pin...not that it's a big deal if that happens, honestly. I did this on the left side to remove the turn signal electrical connector away from the rest of the harness, then pushed the retainer back on.
|
|
365 viewsUse a #1 Phillips screwdriver to remove the clear lens retaining screw.
|
|
365 viewsMy test bracket front an center proved the load resistor worked in keeping the right LED turn signal from flashing fast when engine RPM went above 3000. JST 2-prong electrical terminals and 50W, 6-ohm resistors (one per bulb).
|
|
365 viewsThe left side mounted. The wiring of the pigtail and such was all pushed forward, thus being outside of the seat pan just like the resistor. The pigtail length was 15cm and that gave plenty of slack to add the resistor leads to.
|
|
364 viewsThe headlamp exposed. Pretty darn simple in there.
|
|
364 viewsWhile I was "in there" I decided to change out the O-rings at the other end of the push rod.
|
|
364 viewsMounted and behind my Rizoma vented clutch cover.
|
|
364 viewsSize comparison of the incandescent (left) bulb vs. the LED unit (right). Though the LED unit is taller it will still fit inside the signal housing with room to spare.
|
|
364 viewsI made a pigtail bridge, effectively just lengthening the distance between the original electrical plugs. This allows me to put the resistor into the circuit, in parallel. This tricks the ECU into thinking it's running incandescent bulbs & thus keeps it from rapidly flashing (bulb-out warning). I was successful on the right side with using blue splice/snap-lock connectors. The left side it wasn't working so I ended up soldering the resistor leads directly to the bridging wires. Perfect. In hind-sight I should've done this to the right side...oh well, some other day. Coated with liquid electrical tape & then wrapped in real tape.
|
|
363 viewsI used the top of the hole in the bolt where the Allen wrench entered.
|
|
With film applied.363 viewsRunning light on.
|
|
...after.361 views
|
|
361 viewsI originally tapped the existing mounting holes in the resistors with 4M x .7 threads but I decided to add Nyloc nuts to insure nothing came loose. All fasteners I used are stainless steel.
|
|
360 viewsThe pigtail length I used was 35mm and the red line shows how it's laid inside the seat pan with the resistor wires coming in an OEM hole (arrow) and spliced into it. This is all hidden by the "tool tray". I could've shortened it by a couple centimeters but it works as is.
|
|
358 viewsHere's the hoses merged together. Cut the bleed hose about 6" down and insert the horizontal part of the tee. Connect the 8" hose. Done!
|
|
| 428 files on 22 page(s) |
 |
16 | |
|
