 Most viewed - Ducati |
344 viewsReference picture.
22GA wire. How the terminals look and are positioned for insertion (crimps up) into the plastic housing.
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344 viewsThe pigtail length I used was 35mm and the red line shows how it's laid inside the seat pan with the resistor wires coming in an OEM hole (arrow) and spliced into it. This is all hidden by the "tool tray". I could've shortened it by a couple centimeters but it works as is.
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343 viewsThe PCIII protected inside some bubble-wrap and under the seat.
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342 viewsLeft side. The front wheel stand and center body cradle can both be removed, as well as the gray twist-tie holding the bike down.
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342 views...to mate with the notch in the one clutch spring post. I seriously don't think it matters but I tried to follow the workshop manual instructions as closely as I could, just in case.
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342 viewsI originally tapped the existing mounting holes in the resistors with 4M x .7 threads but I decided to add Nyloc nuts to insure nothing came loose. All fasteners I used are stainless steel.
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342 viewsThe JST electrical connectors/terminals are tiny, delicate, and not easy to get inserted into the plugs. The crimpers on the right are just for these pins and were just over $40, which is CHEAP because the good ones go for over $400.
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342 viewsThe left side mounted. The wiring of the pigtail and such was all pushed forward, thus being outside of the seat pan just like the resistor. The pigtail length was 15cm and that gave plenty of slack to add the resistor leads to.
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341 viewsThe top bar has the stock groove in it and the bottom one shows the extra material I had to remove, about 3/4 of the width of the original groove. Both bars required this modification. This allows the bar to be positioned "down" more so the reservoir clamps/brackets can fit on the bars. I used a hack saw to make the initial removal of material then used a rat-tail (round) file to further remove material and neaten the curves. Remember to remove just a little instead of too much! These are aluminum and it's very easy to work with.
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339 views
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338 viewsI used the hole in the pressure plate...
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337 viewsWhat you need: A barbed "T"-fitting that's 1/4" at each end. I used an 8" piece of fuel line instead of cutting the original drainage hose.
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337 viewsUse a Phillips screwdriver to remove the retaining screw at the bottom of the headlamp. No need to completely remove the screw, just until it becomes loose & wobbly.
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336 viewsThis is the drainage hose that I'm removing. I'm just going to tee it into the existing bleed hose, that's all.
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336 viewsOther side of the bar showing the locating pin and hole.
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334 viewsHere's what the left bracket looks like. Ugly. But it works, keeping it away from plastics and wires, so that's what matters in the end.
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333 viewsRight side showing locating pin and hole.
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333 viewsVented EVR pressure plate mounted and springs/spring caps installed. In a star pattern, screw the bolts all the way down until they stop, THEN you continue the star pattern to torque them down. I placed the EVR logo at about the 4 o'clock position and then torqued the bolts, allowing the cap to rotate and thus line up neatly. It did take several tries.
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332 viewsThe parking lamp simply pulls straight out. It's a friction-fit retention assembly.
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332 viewsComparison of the incandescent bulb (left) and the LED replacement (right).
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