 Most viewed - Ducati |
358 viewsUse a Phillips screwdriver to remove the retaining screw at the bottom of the headlamp. No need to completely remove the screw, just until it becomes loose & wobbly.
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357 viewsI'm holding the hose that I'm going to merge and thus remove. The one near the bottom of the picture with the brass hose clamp is the hose that will remain and thus serve as the bleed and drainage line.
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357 viewsHere's what the left bracket looks like. Ugly. But it works, keeping it away from plastics and wires, so that's what matters in the end.
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356 viewsLeft side. The front wheel stand and center body cradle can both be removed, as well as the gray twist-tie holding the bike down.
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356 viewsHi-risers and controls installed, ready to put the bike back together.
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Detail 1356 viewsOEM Sachs on top (black spring) and Ohlins racing on the bottom (yellow spring).
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354 views
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354 viewsThe top bar has the stock groove in it and the bottom one shows the extra material I had to remove, about 3/4 of the width of the original groove. Both bars required this modification. This allows the bar to be positioned "down" more so the reservoir clamps/brackets can fit on the bars. I used a hack saw to make the initial removal of material then used a rat-tail (round) file to further remove material and neaten the curves. Remember to remove just a little instead of too much! These are aluminum and it's very easy to work with.
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354 viewsThe PCIII protected inside some bubble-wrap and under the seat.
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352 viewsThese are the inner-most plates. Only slightly less wear than the fronts.
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351 viewsOther side of the bar showing the locating pin and hole.
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348 views
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348 viewsThis is the drainage hose that I'm removing. I'm just going to tee it into the existing bleed hose, that's all.
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348 viewsI used the hole in the pressure plate...
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348 views...to mate with the notch in the one clutch spring post. I seriously don't think it matters but I tried to follow the workshop manual instructions as closely as I could, just in case.
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347 viewsWhat you need: A barbed "T"-fitting that's 1/4" at each end. I used an 8" piece of fuel line instead of cutting the original drainage hose.
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Before...347 viewsThe bottom of the switch housing is at 34".
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345 viewsRight side showing locating pin and hole.
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345 viewsThis shows the stock locating pin on the hi-riser. Because the banjo fittings on the hand controls interfered with the gauge cluster I couldn't use the stock positions -- bummer! So I removed the locating pins and rotated the clip-ons backward a couple millimeters. My clip-ons are butted up against the upper triple. I also had to adjust my left steering stop so my horn button wouldn't press against the tank so my left turning radius is slightly less than my right.
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344 viewsThe parking lamp simply pulls straight out. It's a friction-fit retention assembly.
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