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Duc_model_005.jpg
450 viewsThe rear suspension is twist-tied to the exhaust. Delicate procedure to remove it. I didn't see its purpose. The rear stand is 100% functional.
tank_grip_006.jpg
449 viewsHere's the StompGrip on the tank. The adhesive backing is 3M and it is sticky! So get everything lined up, triple checked, then peel the backing off. Place the StompGrip inbetween the marks and get it right the first time because the stuff is STICKY!
LED_parkinglight_011.jpg
449 viewsThe stock incandescent bulb. Boooo!
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449 viewsOnce the bale is pulled out then the connector can be removed. As you can see, removing the bale doesn't need to be pretty to be effective.
LED_parkinglight_019.jpg
448 viewsThis shows where the retaining clip will rest. Simply put the top of the headlamp ring on the lip of the headlamp bucket and pivot the bottom section down. Make sure the retaining clip fits inside the bottom of the headlamp bucket and then gently push the bottom of the headlamp towards the bike body. Snug retaining screw to secure headlamp but don't over-tighten!
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448 viewsStock sprocket cover.
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448 viewsThere's a indentation in the seat pan that my tape measure consistently fit nicely in.
T-lines_001.jpg
447 viewsThis is the drainage hose that I'm removing. I'm just going to tee it into the existing bleed hose, that's all.
T-lines_004.jpg
447 viewsHere's the hoses merged together. Cut the bleed hose about 6" down and insert the horizontal part of the tee. Connect the 8" hose. Done!
new_spark_plugs_002.jpg
446 viewsSlipping the boot past the end of the wire can be a little tricky so hemostats are helpful in pulling. Remember to use some WD-40 to help lubricate the wire. The blue crimpers have an MSD die in them for crimping the connectors to the wires.
fork_protectors_015.jpg
445 viewsRight side, back view.
LED_parkinglight_020.avi
445 viewsThough you can watch the video here, it's awfully big so I suggest going to my YouTube page here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ozZp4sLwWhA
new_spark_plugs_014.jpg
445 viewsThe core is folded under the wire and the connector firmly crimped, ready for use.
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445 viewsThis shows the stock locating pin on the hi-riser. Because the banjo fittings on the hand controls interfered with the gauge cluster I couldn't use the stock positions -- bummer! So I removed the locating pins and rotated the clip-ons backward a couple millimeters. My clip-ons are butted up against the upper triple. I also had to adjust my left steering stop so my horn button wouldn't press against the tank so my left turning radius is slightly less than my right.
IMAG0854.jpg
445 viewsNow remove the 4 bolts, apply thread locker, and install the 8 bolts according to the workshop manual. The local Ducati dealership said it would be perfectly fine to reuse the bolts. I had to hold the clutch basket and torque down the bolts...it was NOT easy! I had no tool to hold it. Next time I'll get a tool or hold the basket and have someone else torque the bolts. I originally removed the bolts with my air gun so there was no need to hold the OEM basket.
IMG_2572.JPG
443 views
005.JPG
443 viewsI used the pick to pull back the OEM wire bale that holds the female connector to the injector. The small screwdriver is then used to keep the bale from snapping back while pulling the bale further out with the pick.
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Before...442 views
IMAG0860.jpg
442 viewsHeight difference between the new stainless steel spring on the left and the tired steel OEM spring on the right.
IMAG1504.jpg
442 viewsThe left side mounted. The wiring of the pigtail and such was all pushed forward, thus being outside of the seat pan just like the resistor. The pigtail length was 15cm and that gave plenty of slack to add the resistor leads to.
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