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03.jpg
593 viewsThis is the starter relay with the OEM cables.
Oberon_003.jpg
589 views...and screw the cap back on. This will help keep the DOT-4 fluid from flowing out when you remove the banjo fitting from the stock unit.
027.JPG
Before (stock clip-ons)...589 views
02.jpg
587 viewsThe OEM setup. The red line is the stock power cable that comes from the battery to the relay, down the right side of the engine, and under the engine to the starter.
roof_helmet_007.jpg
Back side585 viewsChin bar in rear position.
04.jpg
583 viewsClose-up of the OEM cable (red line) as it wraps around the front of the clutch and then to the starter post on the starter.
roof_helmet_004.jpg
572 views
grips_slapper_001.jpg
Skully grips by Driven570 viewsBefore. Stock grips.
roof_helmet_003.jpg
567 viewsChin bar in back position.
IMAG1574.jpg
561 viewsRemove the headlight and place on a thick towel. The low-beam is at the top of the headlight, which is the top of this picture. This shows the back removed and the bulb area exposed -- there are 7 screws that hold the back on. The greyish-silver bolt at the 11 o'clock position on the outside edge is the headlight vertical adjustment. To get more operating space inside the housing I rotated mine anti-clockwise 6 turns. Make sure you mark the bolt with a spot on the housing so you know where to return it when everything is all installed.
rizoma_cover_004.jpg
554 viewsThe four bolts are removed and the cover is on the ground (it's resting on a foam Frisbee). Notice that the bolts are different lengths so make sure you put them back in the same holes. You can also see the clutch dust in the cover and on the exhaust pipe.
hypermotard_oil_line_009.jpg
550 viewsBreather line re-installed and bracket re-mounted with both oil lines now inside. Now connect the line to the top of the oil cooler and tighten the bottom connection. The connections are snugged to 24 ft-lbs -- that's not very tight so go easy! Again, use both 19mm wrenches to tighten things. Also, smear engine oil on the O-rings before slipping them into the connector. Make sure the insertion is straight and smooth as you do NOT want to tear or pinch them!
hypermotard_oil_line_007.jpg
549 viewsHere's both oil lines in the bracket.
hypermotard_oil_line_008.jpg
548 viewsSlide the bracket back down (shown here where it comes from), pop the breather back in the loop, then bolt the bracket back onto the engine.
grips_slapper_025.jpg
540 viewsI used a scrap piece of the 3M film to make a surround for the body work around ignition cylinder.
rizoma_cover_006.jpg
535 viewsPut some blue Loctite on the bolt threads and snug the new cover back on. No need to be a gorilla and wrench down! The blue Loctite will insure the bolts don't back out. Here it is, installed.
rizoma_cover_007.jpg
533 viewsOther angle.
grips_slapper_005.jpg
529 viewsRaw handle bar. Removing the left side is easy. Squirt some Windex(R) under the grip to help loosen its "grip" and make it easier to slip off.
IMAG1583.jpg
528 viewsLooking down into the bulb housing cavity. The reflector will need to be moved forward just a tad, like a couple millimeters, to clear the taller HID bulb. If you get flickering or the bulb doesn't light up after installing the HID bulb then chances are good that the bulb is touching the reflector and shorting out.
IMAG1591.jpg
528 viewsThis is how you begin to stuff the electronics into the headlight bucket. Follow along...
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