 Most viewed - Zoom-zoom |
589 viewsI chased the clamp bolt holes with a tap to expose the bare metal. I opted to not use the supplied lock washers because I don't like the idea of them digging into the paint and exposing the metal to air and moisture (rust). So ALL fasteners have blue Loctite on them to hold them in place. I used a flat washer under every bolt head and under every nut.
|
|
588 views...and screw the cap back on. This will help keep the DOT-4 fluid from flowing out when you remove the banjo fitting from the stock unit.
|
|
Before (stock clip-ons)...587 views
|
|
586 viewsThe OEM setup. The red line is the stock power cable that comes from the battery to the relay, down the right side of the engine, and under the engine to the starter.
|
|
Back side585 viewsChin bar in rear position.
|
|
583 viewsSport bike clamped in without straps.
|
|
582 viewsClose-up of the OEM cable (red line) as it wraps around the front of the clutch and then to the starter post on the starter.
|
|
577 viewsWill even work for my son's bicycle :-)
|
|
575 viewsAll connected. Use the Bentley wiring diagram to assist but this is basically how it's wired. Remember, you're simply replacing the vibrator with the VR and using a resistor pack in-line with the fuel gauge sender to bring the voltage down to a reasonable level.
+12V (black wire from gauge cluster) -> VR -> gauge -> resistor pack -> tank sender (brown w/black stripe wire)
|
|
572 views
|
|
571 views
|
|
Skully grips by Driven570 viewsBefore. Stock grips.
|
|
565 viewsChin bar in back position.
|
|
560 viewsRemove the headlight and place on a thick towel. The low-beam is at the top of the headlight, which is the top of this picture. This shows the back removed and the bulb area exposed -- there are 7 screws that hold the back on. The greyish-silver bolt at the 11 o'clock position on the outside edge is the headlight vertical adjustment. To get more operating space inside the housing I rotated mine anti-clockwise 6 turns. Make sure you mark the bolt with a spot on the housing so you know where to return it when everything is all installed.
|
|
557 viewsLooking forward, this is the point where the main heater duct connects to the forward 'Y' where some heat can be diverted to the interior floor vent that is between the driver/passenger seats that points into the center of the Bus. Here the flap is closed so all heated air goes to the front of the Bus.
|
|
554 viewsThe four bolts are removed and the cover is on the ground (it's resting on a foam Frisbee). Notice that the bolts are different lengths so make sure you put them back in the same holes. You can also see the clutch dust in the cover and on the exhaust pipe.
|
|
549 viewsBreather line re-installed and bracket re-mounted with both oil lines now inside. Now connect the line to the top of the oil cooler and tighten the bottom connection. The connections are snugged to 24 ft-lbs -- that's not very tight so go easy! Again, use both 19mm wrenches to tighten things. Also, smear engine oil on the O-rings before slipping them into the connector. Make sure the insertion is straight and smooth as you do NOT want to tear or pinch them!
|
|
548 viewsWhat it looks like under the dash when put back together. The resistors aren't touching anything and there's no tension on them.
|
|
548 viewsHere's both oil lines in the bracket.
|
|
548 viewsSlide the bracket back down (shown here where it comes from), pop the breather back in the loop, then bolt the bracket back onto the engine.
|
|
| 1529 files on 77 page(s) |
 |
13 | |
|
