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509 viewsHow the HID bulb looks when installed. It can only go in one way so it's pretty easy. Don't do it now as we need to get the electronics installed first!
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508 viewsRight fog light installed, front view. Note that adjusting screw is always at the top.
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508 viewsFirst, remove the two acorn nuts from the bottom of the headlight fairing. The order is nut, washer, fairing mount, then star-washer. Strada owners should remove the windscreen for easier access to everything. Next, snip the zip-tie on the left side that holds the two cables that feed the headlight. The cable holder is on the frame head. The two headlight cables are below it and towards the center rear of the frame head. That yellowish connector you see below the snips is one of them.
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507 viewsClose up of mounting the VR to the back of the gauge body.
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506 viewsMeasure the length needed to be wrapped, add 1/2" to 1" extra, and cut with ordinary scissors. The wrap I used was 16" and it worked well to wrap the circumference of the duct with a little over-lap. Put the over-lap seam down so if water should get in, it will drain out. I had 11" and 8" zip-ties so I used them together to hold the wrap. Snug it down until it just dimples the insulation; don't reef down on it and over-tighten it!
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506 viewsHere's the replacement cover, a Rizoma unit. All you need is a 5mm Allen wrench. Not pictured, but still needed, is some blue Loctite.
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506 viewsNapoleon mirror removed.
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505 viewsLooking forward at the center section. I clipped off the stock duct zip-ties, wrapped the duct, and then zip-tied the duct back to the mounting points.
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504 viewsWhat do you do with the left-over stock grips? You could use 'em for handle holders.
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502 viewsWhat I did was take a short piece of wire and solder it to the pin on the VR and then shrink-wrapped it to keep it insulated. I then crimped a spade connector at the end of the wire. I have a quality (a.k.a. expensive) wire crimper so I know my crimps are good and will last. The right pin (red wire) of the VR connects to the right spade/tab on the fuel gauge. The left pin (black wire) is what gets the +12 volts. Note the spade connetors are being used -- the red wire has a female spade connector and connects to the fuel gauge while the black wire has a male spade connector and is connected to the +12 volt black wire from the gauge cluster.
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499 views
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498 viewsEngine lowered and pulled back a little so left axle can be maneuvered to the top of the starter.
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498 viewsHere's my 2006 Ducati Sport Classic 1000, monoposto (single seat), with the stock dry clutch cover.
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498 viewsBack side of the right fog light housing.
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496 viewsAfter.
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495 viewsThis next sequence shows how I insulated the loop that feeds the main cabin (as opposed to the section that feeds the driver's cabin). Put an 18" rectangle of the insulation above the duct, cut a slit, and wrap the duct that feeds the cabin. Thus, I worked backwards, insulating the right arm of the Y-duct last (if laying on your back and looking up).
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495 viewsNew grip installed.
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495 viewsRemove the puny OEM bulb. Carefully put it aside and don't touch the glass. You may want to save it as a spare, just in case.
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493 views
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492 viewsHere's the plug to be modified. I found it unnecessary to remove ALL of the plugs per the instructions but you can. Remember to lift the red tab up to unlock the connector.
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