 Most viewed - Zoom-zoom |
562 viewsSame duct, just took the picture from the left side of the Bus. Wrapping this duct is likely the most difficult of all the ducts so go slow and think. I know the pictures aren't a huge help but they give an idea. I'm sure there's more than one way to insulate this loop.
|
|
562 viewsHere are the resistors...beefy! They are 3 watts each. If you use a smaller wattage resistor they will get hot!! These will get warm but not hot. One is 1-ohm and the other 16-ohms. You wire them in series so you get a total of 17-ohms resistance. So you can use any combination of resistors you want, just shoot for 17-ohms. This puts my gas gauge needle right on the first white mark (left side) of the red Reserve section but the needle will go a little past the Full mark when the tank is topped up. Add more resistance to have the needle move down more but I'm guessing that a total of 20-ohms would be the max to use.
|
|
562 views
|
|
561 views
|
|
561 viewsTo separate the two electrical connectors simply lift the tab (red arrow) and gently pull the male connector (what I'm holding) from the female (top) (yellow arrows).
|
|
560 viewsNotice e-brake cable is above engine bar. Remember this when installing engine.
|
|
560 views
|
|
560 viewsTo make life MUCH easier just remove the battery. Also remove the positive power lead (red wire I'm holding) from the fuse box as well as the cover.
|
|
560 viewsThis is the complete kit. The flat, squarish box to the left is the ballast while the rectangular box above it is the ignitor. The bulb and wiring is to the right.
For removing the headlight see my album "Diavel headlight film install".
|
|
559 viewsWhere it ends. Give or take several inches :-)
|
|
559 viewsThe right side fully wrapped with no problem. By the way, I'd recommend disconnecting the battery when working on the Y-section and back (like this part) as the insulation can conduct electricity and there is the starter chillin' out there, with it's +12v constant supply just waiting for some action ;-)
|
|
559 views
|
|
559 viewsWires snapped in place.
|
|
558 viewsWhat I did was take a short piece of wire and solder it to the pin on the VR and then shrink-wrapped it to keep it insulated. I then crimped a spade connector at the end of the wire. I have a quality (a.k.a. expensive) wire crimper so I know my crimps are good and will last. The right pin (red wire) of the VR connects to the right spade/tab on the fuel gauge. The left pin (black wire) is what gets the +12 volts. Note the spade connetors are being used -- the red wire has a female spade connector and connects to the fuel gauge while the black wire has a male spade connector and is connected to the +12 volt black wire from the gauge cluster.
|
|
Reference: Rear gear box, rear side.558 viewsRear side of rear gear box. Steel roll pin is 3/16" diameter by 1-1/2" long. This is where the crank handle connects. The zinc washer is 2" diameter with a 3/4" hole and is a tad thicker than the original one (I couldn't find a thin one). The grommet between the washer and case is 1-5/8" outside diameter (OD) and 1/4" thick so it's just slightly thinner than the original one.
|
|
557 viewsStock fascia blank removed, right side. There are four hooks (one at each corner) that hold it in. After trying to be careful removing the right side, I said to hell with it and cut the tabs on the left side and threw away the blanks.
|
|
556 viewsUse a split-seam wire loom around the e-brake cable to keep it from rubbing a groove into the insulation.
|
|
556 viewsFeed your pigtail wires in, white with yellow stripe on the left in the #16 hole and the white with orange stripe on the right in the #11 hole. The numbers are on the outside of the black plug.
|
|
555 viewsI used a 7/16" socket -- none of my standard metric sockets fit! -- to carefully snug down the VR. I used the stock sheet metal screw from the original vibrator to secure the VR down. I also put a stainless steel split washer under the head of the screw to help lock the screw in place. Just in case...
|
|
555 viewsThe JST electrical connectors/terminals are tiny, delicate, and not easy to get inserted into the plugs. The crimpers on the right are just for these pins and were just over $40, which is CHEAP because the good ones go for over $400.
|
|
| 1529 files on 77 page(s) |
 |
17 | |
|
