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405 viewsI wasn't able to fully wrap this piece. It was a real pain to get the insulation on top of it. Since it is already insulated from the factory I didn't worry much about cutting up some insulation and wrapping the bottom. Maybe at a later date. Notice that I did put an 18" sheet across the top of the heat exchanger ducts that go over the torsion housing. What a pain in the neck! Trying to wrap this section wasn't worth it, with the tubes, guides, wires, and shifter parts all in the way -- very busy area!
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405 viewsTo reduce scratches from the squeegee, wrap it in a semi-thick cloth. This is mine from a previous film application and is what I used after I noticed small scratches appearing on the film when I first started using the supplied one.
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405 viewsAfter, low-beam.
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405 viewsIndexes all lined up. Ready for the case halves to be mated now.
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Before...404 views
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404 viewsEmpty clutch housing, ready for the new unit.
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404 viewsAfter, high-beam.
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404 viewsInstalled and ready to ride!
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Reference: Rear gear box, rear side.404 viewsRear side of rear gear box. Steel roll pin is 3/16" diameter by 1-1/2" long. This is where the crank handle connects. The zinc washer is 2" diameter with a 3/4" hole and is a tad thicker than the original one (I couldn't find a thin one). The grommet between the washer and case is 1-5/8" outside diameter (OD) and 1/4" thick so it's just slightly thinner than the original one.
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403 viewsNew fog-light equipped light switch. To operate simply push the dial in. Of course, you have to go to the *&$%! dealership to get it 'enabled'! Fogs automatically turn off when high beams are turned on, however, they remain on when using the "flash to pass" feature. Also, the 'system' remembers the position of the fogs so if you leave them on when you turn off the lights, they will automatically come back on when you turn the lights back on, including if you turn off the car.
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Getting the power ready for the turn signal LED array.403 viewsUse a BLUE wire tap-in like what I show. The ones that are RED are for smaller wire sizes and the YELLOW ones are for larger wires. I prefer these because when you insert the insulated male connector it makes a positive fit and keeps the tap locked on to the wire. -- Left side: Tap into the white wire with the GREEN stripe. -- Right side: Tap into the white wire with the BROWN stripe. -- FYI for both lights: The black wire [on the outside] is ground, the middle wire is the parking light and the other outside wire is the turn signal.
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403 viewsI didn't get pictures of all the steps after this one because it's a bit fiddly. This shows roughly how you want to start the process of rotating the ballast anti-clockwise and move it a little left of center under that hourglass brace (center of headlight bucket). The electrical cables coming from the ballast will be pointing to the right side of the headlight bucket and the power plug will be up and next to the ignitor when done.
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402 viewsTop view of LEDs firing.
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402 viewsClutch pack removed. See all those teeth marks? Yeah, that's how a clutch basket SHOULDN'T look! Very worn out.
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401 viewsNotice e-brake cable is above engine bar. Remember this when installing engine.
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401 viewsBefore, low-beam.
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401 viewsThe repaired pin in place. Thin plastic washer goes between the gear (front and rear gears) and the case.
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400 viewsUpper triple tree removed. Use a 6mm Allen wrench to loosen all clamping bolts. Alternately tap the bottom of the clip-ons to walk the triple tree and clip-ons up. I used a block of wood positioned under the clip-on and tapped it with a rubber mallet -- just in case I missed the wood!
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400 viewsThis is how it should look when done. The hard part of this install has been completed!
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399 viewsSame duct, just took the picture from the left side of the Bus. Wrapping this duct is likely the most difficult of all the ducts so go slow and think. I know the pictures aren't a huge help but they give an idea. I'm sure there's more than one way to insulate this loop.
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