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IMAG1677.jpg
421 viewsI ground the planetary pin level and then drilled a 3/16" hole in it to a half-inch depth. I got a piece of 3/16" rod from the local hardware store, beveled the edge, then pushed it into the hole.
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419 views
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419 viewsFog harness using a hook on the right side radiator fan surround.
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419 viewsAt the top pulley you mark the replacement belt perfectly with the mark on the old belt. You can now remove the vertical belt and quickly replace it with the new belt, followed by the horizontal belt. Adjust the belt tension and then go ride!
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418 viewsThis shows just how much the head lamps are angled on top. The left side has the LED array far back (towards the engine) whereas on the right side I wasn't as accurate and the LED array is about 3mm-5mm more forward (away from the engine). This clearly shows how the lip on the head lamp disburses the light. The left side is what I was originally looking for so I should've been more patient when installing the right side. Experience gained.
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DRL LED stealing the spotlight from the turn signal.417 viewsMy current issue is the super bright DRL LEDs washing out the amber turn signal LEDs as shown in this video. Also on YouTube at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00wxGYhHd0k&list=UUhzs41pIUb_YugBfXOWUwvw&index=1&feature=plcp
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417 viewsLeft side are the 'raw' bits that make up the mounts. On the right is the completed right mount.
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Cable shifter416 views
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...after.416 views
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416 viewsThe ground lug I used on the left side. Use a ring connector for the grounds. This insures the nut will still make a connection even if the nut gets loosened.
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416 viewsI used my engine hoist to lift my bike by the frame. I'm so glad I have this! This was necessary to get the full extension sag measurement as well as lifting the bike to take pressure off the lower bolt so it could be removed.
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416 viewsFor the inner belt that runs the vertical (rear) cylinder I made my own mark on the belt and pulley at about the center spot.
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416 viewsConnect the ignitor wires to the bulb. One thing I did to make this wiring install easier is to remove the weather seal that holds the 4 wires. Since everything is contained within the headlight bucket there's no need for the wiring seal. Carefully use a sharp blade, like a crescent X-acto blade, to cut the seal and remove the wiring.
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416 viewsThe new pin in the hole, ready for welding.
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415 views
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415 viewsXentec - The kit I used. Also, remove the DRL (Daytime Running Lights) relay, #173. It's located where the fuses are but a little deeper behind the dashboard -- it easily pulls straight out. Yes, you'll have to manually turn on your lights when you drive now. You can drive with the relay intact and the lights will come one (well, ours did), but the HIDs are getting a reduced voltage and may not turn on, they could even turn off while driving due to the reduced voltage feeding them. By removing the relay you insure that they get full voltage when you turn on the headlights.
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415 views
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Turn signal switch415 viewsAll apart. Use white lithium on the left part of the switch, where the ball bearing rubs against the left wall. Use dielectric grease everywhere else.
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415 viewsThe view of the installed ladder and hi-risers. Headlight goes back on and the gauge cluster and I'm ready to ride a little more comfortably.
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415 viewsGrasp the original bulb to gently pull the reflector straight out. I show this angled so the inside end can be seen. Gently push the bulb in just a little bit and then rotate it to remove it. Mine were in there quite snug! The LED unit goes in the same way as the bulb. Put everything back together. Done!
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