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Day example.379 viewsDay time demo. Also on YouTube.com at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sr75SJdNsJQ&feature=relmfu
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378 viewsHere is the flapper box that sits above the heat exchangers. This is the closed position so all air exits out the "bell" (right-most part of the flapper box) and into the atmosphere. Air is always flowing through the heat exchangers -- it just goes into the interior or vents to the outside.
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378 viewsComes with everything you see here, including a knife for trimming excess film off and a very nice water mister. Follow the instructions! I did use the sharp knife to trim the mounting tabs off (they're only used for positioning the film). I placed the film closest to the inside edge of the lens (near the center of the headlight) to get the best coverage.
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378 viewsLeft to right: Rear of gear box with rearward ring, laying on table is planetary ring, behind that is the forward ring, and behind that is a thin plastic washer.
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377 viewsThe view of the installed ladder and hi-risers. Headlight goes back on and the gauge cluster and I'm ready to ride a little more comfortably.
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377 viewsHow it looks using a vice. The push rod is free to move as the socket is resting on the vice clamps.
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376 views
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376 viewsShowing how the make connector fits on the tap-in. For the LED wires use RED connectors! I use a professional crimper to give me consistent, quality crimps. Because the LED wire was so small I strip away about 1/2" of the insulation and then fold the wire back on itself, then insert it into the connector. This allows more material (wire) to fill the space and make a more solid connection & crimp. The black 'goo' is dried liquid electrical tape. I also use electrical tape on the connector and wire to help protect the connector from collecting water.
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376 viewsPlanetary gear in position and pin marked where it needs to be cut.
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375 viewsHarbor Freight trim tool (nylon kit, non-scratching, less than $6) used to pry the light switch out. Very easy.
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DRL LED stealing the spotlight from the turn signal.375 viewsMy current issue is the super bright DRL LEDs washing out the amber turn signal LEDs as shown in this video. Also on YouTube at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00wxGYhHd0k&list=UUhzs41pIUb_YugBfXOWUwvw&index=1&feature=plcp
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Done!375 views
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375 viewsAt the top pulley you mark the replacement belt perfectly with the mark on the old belt. You can now remove the vertical belt and quickly replace it with the new belt, followed by the horizontal belt. Adjust the belt tension and then go ride!
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375 viewsPush in the power supply spade connectors into the headlight connector. As can be seen in the picture, I put the black wires together and the red wire with the white wire.
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375 viewsPin welded in and ground. The gears are plastic and so after each weld you need to dip the pin into water to cool it down otherwise the plastic holding the pin will melt...as I found out. But the plastic didn't melt too badly and the original pin is still secure.
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374 viewsLine up the pulley markings with those on the engine case. I used a white grease pencil (china marker) to mark the points on both the case and pulleys for faster visual confirmation. You can see here I drew a line all of the way across the horizontal belt and center pulley as a precaution. I marked the replacement (new) horizontal belt the same way as the vertical belt explained here.
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374 viewsFor the inner belt that runs the vertical (rear) cylinder I made my own mark on the belt and pulley at about the center spot.
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374 viewsLeft side are the 'raw' bits that make up the mounts. On the right is the completed right mount.
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373 viewsI used my engine hoist to lift my bike by the frame. I'm so glad I have this! This was necessary to get the full extension sag measurement as well as lifting the bike to take pressure off the lower bolt so it could be removed.
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373 viewsRepaired pin cut, ground further, and beveled. Fits in the hole nicely! Remember, the planetary ring will move side-to-side so make sure the pin isn't butted against the end of the hole. Allow for the movement.
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