 Most viewed - Zoom-zoom |
363 views...and now it's in the 'locked' position. I noticed many of the electrical connectors had some sort of lock on them. If you see a red tab/button then that's a connector lock.
|
|
With film applied.363 viewsLow beam (regular OEM bulb) and running light.
|
|
363 viewsI made a pigtail bridge, effectively just lengthening the distance between the original electrical plugs. This allows me to put the resistor into the circuit, in parallel. This tricks the ECU into thinking it's running incandescent bulbs & thus keeps it from rapidly flashing (bulb-out warning). I was successful on the right side with using blue splice/snap-lock connectors. The left side it wasn't working so I ended up soldering the resistor leads directly to the bridging wires. Perfect. In hind-sight I should've done this to the right side...oh well, some other day. Coated with liquid electrical tape & then wrapped in real tape.
|
|
363 viewsThe left side mounted. The wiring of the pigtail and such was all pushed forward, thus being outside of the seat pan just like the resistor. The pigtail length was 15cm and that gave plenty of slack to add the resistor leads to.
|
|
362 viewsThe "OUT" port is on the right side of the tank and this is where the fuel is outputted to the fuel injectors. The "IN" port is where the fuel is pushed back into the tank/pump. At the end of the IN port, inside the tank, is the pressure regulator.
|
|
362 viewsNot great but you can see the amber of the LED turn signal as I'm standing by the rear edge of the door, about 1' away.
|
|
362 viewsSize comparison of the incandescent (left) bulb vs. the LED unit (right). Though the LED unit is taller it will still fit inside the signal housing with room to spare.
|
|
362 viewsUse a #1 Phillips screwdriver to remove the clear lens retaining screw.
|
|
362 viewsMy test bracket front an center proved the load resistor worked in keeping the right LED turn signal from flashing fast when engine RPM went above 3000. JST 2-prong electrical terminals and 50W, 6-ohm resistors (one per bulb).
|
|
362 viewsRemoving the one-way retaining washer is a pain in the butt. Chances are very good that you could end up breaking the pin...not that it's a big deal if that happens, honestly. I did this on the left side to remove the turn signal electrical connector away from the rest of the harness, then pushed the retainer back on.
|
|
361 views
|
|
361 viewsLower bolt. Use a 10mm Allen wrench to remove the bolts. Though they already have molyb (grease B using Ducati nomenclature) smeared on them I (later) added a little bit more.
|
|
361 viewsMounted and behind my Rizoma vented clutch cover.
|
|
360 viewsIn case you drop the parts, here's how the bits go together. The washer goes on the screw and then the screw goes into the lever and the bushing. The flat side of the bushing faces the thumb pad.
|
|
360 viewsThe headlamp exposed. Pretty darn simple in there.
|
|
With film applied.360 viewsRunning light on.
|
|
360 viewsTaken apart with the rear case fully removed.
|
|
359 viewsFold out table.
|
|
359 views
|
|
359 viewsI used the top of the hole in the bolt where the Allen wrench entered.
|
|
| 1529 files on 77 page(s) |
 |
27 | |
|
