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406 views
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406 views
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406 viewsSeat the wiring gasket as so...pretty dang obvious. How it should look.
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406 views...and now it's in the 'locked' position. I noticed many of the electrical connectors had some sort of lock on them. If you see a red tab/button then that's a connector lock.
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405 views
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405 viewsHi-risers and controls installed, ready to put the bike back together.
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405 viewsRight side ground...had to use a 10mm box wrench (spanner).
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405 viewsSize comparison of the incandescent (left) bulb vs. the LED unit (right). Though the LED unit is taller it will still fit inside the signal housing with room to spare.
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405 viewsSame thing for forward gear.
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404 views
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404 viewsHow it looks using a vice. The push rod is free to move as the socket is resting on the vice clamps.
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403 views
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403 viewsRemove the two screws that attach the wheel well splash guard to the front bumper skin (left side shown).
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Left side shown. Right is just like the left side.403 viewsAfter removing the bumper skin fasteners remove the 10mm bolt and pin retainer. Do this for both sides (remove all fasteners). This will allow the front fascia and bumper skin to be pulled back enough to get to the head lights. The bumper is still attached to the vehicle by lower fasteners but for this situation it doesn't need to be fully removed.
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Detail 1403 viewsOEM Sachs on top (black spring) and Ohlins racing on the bottom (yellow spring).
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403 viewsRepaired pin cut, ground further, and beveled. Fits in the hole nicely! Remember, the planetary ring will move side-to-side so make sure the pin isn't butted against the end of the hole. Allow for the movement.
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402 viewsWhen attaching the switch housing make sure to line up the housing pin to the hole in the handle bar.
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402 views"Tool tray" needs to be removed for tucking the wires in on the right side. There are six of the 4mm fasteners holding it down.
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401 views
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401 views
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