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![Filename=IMAG1258.jpg
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339 viewsSize comparison of the incandescent (left) bulb vs. the LED unit (right). Though the LED unit is taller it will still fit inside the signal housing with room to spare.
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![Filename=IMAG1259.jpg
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339 viewsUse a #1 Phillips screwdriver to remove the clear lens retaining screw.
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![Filename=IMAG1261.jpg
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340 viewsPivot the outside of the clear lens a little and then gently pull the lens away from the housing.
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![Filename=IMAG1263.jpg
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342 viewsThe red circled part shows why the lens needs to be angled out when removing it. That hook helps hold the lens in to the housing. The end opposite the hook is where the screw goes.
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![Filename=IMAG1264.jpg
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347 viewsGrasp the original bulb to gently pull the reflector straight out. I show this angled so the inside end can be seen. Gently push the bulb in just a little bit and then rotate it to remove it. Mine were in there quite snug! The LED unit goes in the same way as the bulb. Put everything back together. Done!
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![Filename=IMAG1486.jpg
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Date added=Aug 02, 2014 IMAG1486.jpg](albums/Diavel_LED_turnsignal/thumb_IMAG1486.jpg)
340 viewsMy test bracket front an center proved the load resistor worked in keeping the right LED turn signal from flashing fast when engine RPM went above 3000. JST 2-prong electrical terminals and 50W, 6-ohm resistors (one per bulb).
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![Filename=IMAG1487-1.jpg
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349 views"Tool tray" needs to be removed for tucking the wires in on the right side. There are six of the 4mm fasteners holding it down.
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![Filename=IMAG1488.jpg
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Date added=Aug 02, 2014 IMAG1488.jpg](albums/Diavel_LED_turnsignal/thumb_IMAG1488.jpg)
343 viewsThe resistor mounts fit in the groove of the rear rubber seat rests.
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![Filename=IMAG1490.jpg
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340 viewsLeft side are the 'raw' bits that make up the mounts. On the right is the completed right mount.
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![Filename=IMAG1492-1.jpg
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Date added=Aug 02, 2014 IMAG1492-1.jpg](albums/Diavel_LED_turnsignal/thumb_IMAG1492-1.jpg)
340 viewsDue to the accessory plug on the left side the left bracket couldn't be a mirror image of the right side. I ultimately had to weld another piece of metal to bridge the original pieces, moving the resistor mounting plate further inboard and to the rear.
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![Filename=IMAG1494.jpg
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Date added=Aug 02, 2014 IMAG1494.jpg](albums/Diavel_LED_turnsignal/thumb_IMAG1494.jpg)
336 viewsThe right side mounted. Easy. It hides under the seat base and is away from the seat edge, thus touching nothing.
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![Filename=IMAG1493.jpg
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Date added=Aug 02, 2014 IMAG1493.jpg](albums/Diavel_LED_turnsignal/thumb_IMAG1493.jpg)
334 viewsI originally tapped the existing mounting holes in the resistors with 4M x .7 threads but I decided to add Nyloc nuts to insure nothing came loose. All fasteners I used are stainless steel.
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![Filename=IMAG1495-1.jpg
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Date added=Aug 02, 2014 IMAG1495-1.jpg](albums/Diavel_LED_turnsignal/thumb_IMAG1495-1.jpg)
336 viewsRemoving the pillion backrest and grab handles is very easy. There are only three, 6mm bolts. One under the seat on each side (red arrow) and the other one is below the back rest mount, center-line of the seat. Be careful when lowering it due to all the wiring. I would also recommend covering the rear fender to protect both pieces from being scratched.
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![Filename=IMAG1496.jpg
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Date added=Aug 02, 2014 IMAG1496.jpg](albums/Diavel_LED_turnsignal/thumb_IMAG1496.jpg)
332 viewsRemoving the one-way retaining washer is a pain in the butt. Chances are very good that you could end up breaking the pin...not that it's a big deal if that happens, honestly. I did this on the left side to remove the turn signal electrical connector away from the rest of the harness, then pushed the retainer back on.
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![Filename=IMAG1497.jpg
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Date added=Aug 02, 2014 IMAG1497.jpg](albums/Diavel_LED_turnsignal/thumb_IMAG1497.jpg)
328 viewsHere's what the left bracket looks like. Ugly. But it works, keeping it away from plastics and wires, so that's what matters in the end.
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![Filename=IMAG1499.jpg
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Date added=Aug 02, 2014 IMAG1499.jpg](albums/Diavel_LED_turnsignal/thumb_IMAG1499.jpg)
329 viewsThe JST electrical connectors/terminals are tiny, delicate, and not easy to get inserted into the plugs. The crimpers on the right are just for these pins and were just over $40, which is CHEAP because the good ones go for over $400.
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![Filename=IMAG1500.jpg
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Date added=Aug 02, 2014 IMAG1500.jpg](albums/Diavel_LED_turnsignal/thumb_IMAG1500.jpg)
331 viewsReference picture.
22GA wire. How the terminals look and are positioned for insertion (crimps up) into the plastic housing.
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![Filename=IMAG1501-1.jpg
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Date added=Aug 02, 2014 IMAG1501-1.jpg](albums/Diavel_LED_turnsignal/thumb_IMAG1501-1.jpg)
335 viewsI made a pigtail bridge, effectively just lengthening the distance between the original electrical plugs. This allows me to put the resistor into the circuit, in parallel. This tricks the ECU into thinking it's running incandescent bulbs & thus keeps it from rapidly flashing (bulb-out warning). I was successful on the right side with using blue splice/snap-lock connectors. The left side it wasn't working so I ended up soldering the resistor leads directly to the bridging wires. Perfect. In hind-sight I should've done this to the right side...oh well, some other day. Coated with liquid electrical tape & then wrapped in real tape.
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![Filename=IMAG1504.jpg
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Date added=Aug 02, 2014 IMAG1504.jpg](albums/Diavel_LED_turnsignal/thumb_IMAG1504.jpg)
332 viewsThe left side mounted. The wiring of the pigtail and such was all pushed forward, thus being outside of the seat pan just like the resistor. The pigtail length was 15cm and that gave plenty of slack to add the resistor leads to.
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![Filename=IMAG1508-1.jpg
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Date added=Aug 02, 2014 IMAG1508-1.jpg](albums/userpics/10001/thumb_IMAG1508-1.jpg)
335 viewsThe pigtail length I used was 35mm and the red line shows how it's laid inside the seat pan with the resistor wires coming in an OEM hole (arrow) and spliced into it. This is all hidden by the "tool tray". I could've shortened it by a couple centimeters but it works as is.
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