 Last additions - How-to |
409 viewsNov 05, 2008
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437 viewsThis picture and the next show that the corner is cut and folded onto itself. It's best to have over-lapping than a gap in the insulation.Nov 05, 2008
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452 viewsNotice that I put a length of split-loom over the cable and wrapped the insulation over it. Again, the split-loom keep the cable from cutting into the insulation.Nov 05, 2008
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485 viewsWhere it ends. Give or take several inches :-)Nov 05, 2008
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493 viewsUse a split-seam wire loom around the e-brake cable to keep it from rubbing a groove into the insulation.Nov 05, 2008
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470 views...but now it is!Nov 05, 2008
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499 viewsThis next sequence shows how I insulated the loop that feeds the main cabin (as opposed to the section that feeds the driver's cabin). Put an 18" rectangle of the insulation above the duct, cut a slit, and wrap the duct that feeds the cabin. Thus, I worked backwards, insulating the right arm of the Y-duct last (if laying on your back and looking up).Nov 05, 2008
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537 viewsUnder the pedal area. The section behind it isn't insulated yet...Nov 05, 2008
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511 viewsMeasure the length needed to be wrapped, add 1/2" to 1" extra, and cut with ordinary scissors. The wrap I used was 16" and it worked well to wrap the circumference of the duct with a little over-lap. Put the over-lap seam down so if water should get in, it will drain out. I had 11" and 8" zip-ties so I used them together to hold the wrap. Snug it down until it just dimples the insulation; don't reef down on it and over-tighten it!Nov 05, 2008
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821 viewsRivet location for aluminum headliner trim holder on right side (sliding door).Apr 21, 2008
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752 viewsApr 21, 2008
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747 viewsLocation of left side headliner aluminum holders. Pointing to rivet.Apr 21, 2008
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770 viewsFoam insulation...fairly thin stuff.Apr 21, 2008
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731 viewsApr 21, 2008
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756 viewsApr 21, 2008
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744 viewsApr 21, 2008
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754 viewsApr 21, 2008
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733 viewsApr 21, 2008
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785 viewsYes, it rained a little while removing the top. This is Oregon, ya know!Apr 21, 2008
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753 viewsApr 21, 2008
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