 Last additions - How-to |
470 viewsNov 05, 2008
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512 viewsThis picture and the next show that the corner is cut and folded onto itself. It's best to have over-lapping than a gap in the insulation.Nov 05, 2008
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508 viewsNotice that I put a length of split-loom over the cable and wrapped the insulation over it. Again, the split-loom keep the cable from cutting into the insulation.Nov 05, 2008
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547 viewsWhere it ends. Give or take several inches :-)Nov 05, 2008
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543 viewsUse a split-seam wire loom around the e-brake cable to keep it from rubbing a groove into the insulation.Nov 05, 2008
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527 views...but now it is!Nov 05, 2008
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544 viewsThis next sequence shows how I insulated the loop that feeds the main cabin (as opposed to the section that feeds the driver's cabin). Put an 18" rectangle of the insulation above the duct, cut a slit, and wrap the duct that feeds the cabin. Thus, I worked backwards, insulating the right arm of the Y-duct last (if laying on your back and looking up).Nov 05, 2008
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601 viewsUnder the pedal area. The section behind it isn't insulated yet...Nov 05, 2008
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567 viewsMeasure the length needed to be wrapped, add 1/2" to 1" extra, and cut with ordinary scissors. The wrap I used was 16" and it worked well to wrap the circumference of the duct with a little over-lap. Put the over-lap seam down so if water should get in, it will drain out. I had 11" and 8" zip-ties so I used them together to hold the wrap. Snug it down until it just dimples the insulation; don't reef down on it and over-tighten it!Nov 05, 2008
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867 viewsRivet location for aluminum headliner trim holder on right side (sliding door).Apr 21, 2008
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832 viewsApr 21, 2008
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813 viewsLocation of left side headliner aluminum holders. Pointing to rivet.Apr 21, 2008
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828 viewsFoam insulation...fairly thin stuff.Apr 21, 2008
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796 viewsApr 21, 2008
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820 viewsApr 21, 2008
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822 viewsApr 21, 2008
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818 viewsApr 21, 2008
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783 viewsApr 21, 2008
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854 viewsYes, it rained a little while removing the top. This is Oregon, ya know!Apr 21, 2008
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826 viewsApr 21, 2008
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