 Most viewed - 914 tranny swap |
363 viewsNew firewall shifter bushing installed (soak in BOILING HOT WATER for ~30-60 seconds, place in hole, put a 24mm socket against it, and hit with hammer). The vice-grips greatly helped get the cabin shift rod into the under-engine shift rod joint.
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362 viewsDropped!
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357 views
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355 views
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352 views
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350 viewsLocation of the upper left nut (17mm) in the engine bay where the tranny mounts to the engine. The bolt is on the inner side of the starter and is used to hold the starter as well as affix the tranny to the engine. This nut can be removed without having to hold the bolt head as the bolt head is captured against the starter and thus won't rotate on you.
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349 views
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348 viewsI put a rag under the cabin shift rod to make it easier to maneuver when I had to put it back into the firewall bushing. Not really necessary if you have skinny fingers like me.
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348 viewsThese next pictures show where I had the jack pad under the tranny. Note that the body is not centered!
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347 viewsTranny is out of the car...
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345 viewsThe left side is a pain in the neck, getting the CV past the starter, but mostly because it's greasy and just slows down the process as you wiggle back and down, back and down...
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341 views
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341 viewsBecause I had to swap tail covers, I removed the tranny mounts completely from the body.
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341 views
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338 viewsThe tranny getting separated from the engine!
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338 viewsThis is looking up at the tranny. Circled is the left lower engine/tranny nut that needs to be removed, just like the right side (the nut is fastened to a stud).
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337 viewsIt's all a matter of backing the tranny out, lowering it a little, backing it out, lowering it a little, backing it out, etc.
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337 viewsWhen putting the tranny mounts back together make sure you line up the peg with the hole to keep things from rotating.
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330 viewsWe have separation!!
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319 views
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