AirCooledNut.com

Home > Zoom-zoom > How-to

Most viewed - How-to
IMAG1648.jpg
516 viewsCloser-up. Exploded view. Notice pin is short...it came to us broken.
aero_92.jpg
515 views
aero_03.jpg
515 views
Bus_duct_wrap_012.jpg
515 views
IMAG1651.jpg
515 viewsInside of rearward gear and planetary gear mating teeth.
aero_02.jpg
514 views
GW_turnsignal_switch_004.jpg
513 viewsThe complete assembly and all lubed up.
020a.JPG
513 viewsRight side ground...had to use a 10mm box wrench (spanner).
IMAG1682.jpg
513 viewsBearing grease (red) applied on the planetary teeth for mating to the rearward gear. I followed the instructions for the "new" teeth so I hope this is okay for the "old" teeth. I think it should be.
HID_057.jpg
512 viewsCable passed through hole, ready for the gasket.
aero_7.gif
510 views
IMAG1679.jpg
510 viewsPin welded in and ground. The gears are plastic and so after each weld you need to dip the pin into water to cool it down otherwise the plastic holding the pin will melt...as I found out. But the plastic didn't melt too badly and the original pin is still secure.
IMG_0708.JPG
507 viewsHere's the VR. The center pin is a ground and the easiest way to ground it is to CAREFULLY bend it back onto the backside of the VR body. It will then be pressed against the gauge cluster body that is grounded. The pins are delicate and if you bend them too much they will break!
IMAG1683.jpg
507 viewsSame thing for forward gear.
aero_01.jpg
506 views
Bus_heat_009.jpg
506 viewsHere the flapper is opened all of the way so all of the heated air goes into the Bus interior. This system is used by all the Types of engines (Type I/II, III, & IV).
aero_05.jpg
505 views
Bus_heat_002.jpg
505 viewsFlap fully open, allowing some of the heated air to divert into the center of the Bus for the rear passengers.
HID_005.jpg
505 viewsXentec - The kit I used. Also, remove the DRL (Daytime Running Lights) relay, #173. It's located where the fuses are but a little deeper behind the dashboard -- it easily pulls straight out. Yes, you'll have to manually turn on your lights when you drive now. You can drive with the relay intact and the lights will come one (well, ours did), but the HIDs are getting a reduced voltage and may not turn on, they could even turn off while driving due to the reduced voltage feeding them. By removing the relay you insure that they get full voltage when you turn on the headlights.
GW_turnsignal_switch_001.jpg
Turn signal switch505 viewsAll apart. Use white lithium on the left part of the switch, where the ball bearing rubs against the left wall. Use dielectric grease everywhere else.
334 files on 17 page(s) 10