 Most viewed - How-to |
358 viewsTo hold the cover up while cutting, I used a 1/2" socket underneath. Use a very sharp Xacto blade and cut s-l-o-w-l-y and carefully.
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358 viewsLow beams on.
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Reference: Front gear box357 viewsPlanetary pin on left side of box (bottom of picture), drive shaft with roll pin is on the right side of the picture.
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356 views
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355 viewsOEM DRL on.
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354 views
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354 views
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354 views
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354 views...to release it from the split shaft below, making it easy to remove the entire pin assembly without breaking it.
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Reference shot353 viewsRear mounted gear box. On left side of trailer looking to the right side.
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352 views
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352 views
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Reference shot352 viewsForward mounted gear box. On left side of trailer looking to the right side. Notice that I added a steel roll pin to the front of the gear box, just in case I need to crank from the front.
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350 views
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350 views
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349 viewsFor the particular bulbs that came in this kit (an early version), I had to cut the wires and then feed them through the gasket. I used butt connectors and high-quality crimpers (expensive) to secure the wires.
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348 views
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348 viewsThe female part of the sliding switch for the high/low beam switch. The long pad is the common power and the right pad is low beam, the left pad is high beam (as pictured here).
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348 viewsJust testing the left DRL LED array directly to the relay box. Used the camera flash to 'dim' the LEDs so they wouldn't wash out the picture. They are so bright that it can be seen that they are on.
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Through the rubber cover347 viewsThe following is the method I used on the left side after trying the right side by using the hard cover (described after this procedure). This is SO much easier to install and route wires, however, you MUST make sure you seal the gasket to the rubber boot so as to keep water out. I personally think this is the best way to do it with the kit I used.
I used a scrap piece of cardboard, cut in a 7/8" diameter circle, and traced the back side of the low beam rubber cover using a permanent marker.
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