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321 viewsTo make a nice 7/8" circle use a compass and set it to 7/16" (about 11mm).
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321 viewsThe interior.
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319 viewsHere's the rubber boot turned inside-out to get a better view of the inside of the gasket and the wires running through it.
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Fuse tap!317 viewsThis is how to easily and safely tap into some power without compromising the stock wiring or running a long lead through the firewall. I cut the bullet connector off so I could pass the wire through the grommet hole and so I could use one of my own spade connectors. To be on the safe side, make sure the fuse tap can handle 25A to 30A minimum. A 10A fuse tap won't work! The bottom slot is for the placing the stock fuse while the top is for the accessory and thus the red wire leading from the fuse tap.
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All done!317 viewsLights on. I took this picture with the flash to dim the LED array as they are very bright.
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315 viewsLocation where I placed the left side electronics. Attached by using the supplied double-sided tape (strong stuff!).
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314 viewsThe original bulbs came with a plastic ring to help hold them in their shipping case. I split it and put it behind the bulb, then carefully pushed the bulb retaining tangs onto the plastic ring. This kept the tangs more even. Without them you'll need to push the tangs down a little bit as well as bend them inward in order to retain the bulb. I oriented the bulb just like the halogen it replaced, tab pointing up. No shadows were cast, full light is output.
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314 viewsLoosely held in.
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314 viewsIn the shade.
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314 viewsParking lights on.
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313 viewsWire passed through and new connector crimped on. Fuse tap is ready to replace the M6 20A fuse. I chose this one because it's powered only when the van is on. This fuse is for the #1 ignition switched power plug and rain sensor...our van doesn't have a rain sensor so it's got power to "spare"...heeheehee.
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313 viewsFeed the power feed wire through the grommet and crimp on the connector. It should be snug in order to keep moisture and dust out.
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