 Most viewed - How-to |
382 views
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382 viewsFacing into the sun, the LEDs can still be seen although they aren't as bright as dedicated OEM units found on other vehicles.
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381 viewsHere's the rubber boot turned inside-out to get a better view of the inside of the gasket and the wires running through it.
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380 viewsTo make a nice 7/8" circle use a compass and set it to 7/16" (about 11mm).
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380 viewsHere's the high/low beam switch all buttoned up.
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380 viewsJust after sunset. At the time I took these pictures it was brighter out than what appears in the images. The LEDs are bright enough to the camera that it used a faster shutter speed, thus making the image look darker than it really is.
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378 viewsFor the particular bulbs that came in this kit (an early version), I had to cut the wires and then feed them through the gasket. I used butt connectors and high-quality crimpers (expensive) to secure the wires.
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378 viewsThe retaining plate on top of the sliding switch assembly.
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All done!378 viewsLights on. I took this picture with the flash to dim the LED array as they are very bright.
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377 viewsJust testing the left DRL LED array directly to the relay box. Used the camera flash to 'dim' the LEDs so they wouldn't wash out the picture. They are so bright that it can be seen that they are on.
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376 viewsLeft heat exchanger accordion duct, looking forward. For some reason, the diameter was more than 16" so the wrap didn't fully cover it.
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Through the rubber cover376 viewsThe following is the method I used on the left side after trying the right side by using the hard cover (described after this procedure). This is SO much easier to install and route wires, however, you MUST make sure you seal the gasket to the rubber boot so as to keep water out. I personally think this is the best way to do it with the kit I used.
I used a scrap piece of cardboard, cut in a 7/8" diameter circle, and traced the back side of the low beam rubber cover using a permanent marker.
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375 views
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372 viewsWhen putting the female part of the switch onto the male part, make sure the sliding contact doesn't catch on the electrical pads on the female piece. Use a scribe or small, flat screwdriver blade to hold it down as you slide the female part on.
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371 viewsParking lights on.
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370 viewsFeed the harness through the rubber cup from the front side.
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Reference shot370 viewsRear mounted gear box. On left side of trailer looking to the right side.
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369 viewsMy kit came with holders that the wires clip into -- notice the orientation of the tang, it faces inside so it will lock in place.
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369 viewsWire passed through and new connector crimped on. Fuse tap is ready to replace the M6 20A fuse. I chose this one because it's powered only when the van is on. This fuse is for the #1 ignition switched power plug and rain sensor...our van doesn't have a rain sensor so it's got power to "spare"...heeheehee.
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366 viewsGrommet installed. It's low enough that it will not interfere with the closing of the relay box lid. The fuse tap wire is 16 gauge so I used a grommet that had a 5/32" bore and 1/4" x 3/32" groove.
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