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327 viewsWire passed through and new connector crimped on. Fuse tap is ready to replace the M6 20A fuse. I chose this one because it's powered only when the van is on. This fuse is for the #1 ignition switched power plug and rain sensor...our van doesn't have a rain sensor so it's got power to "spare"...heeheehee.
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327 views
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326 viewsThe fuse tab plugged in and with the stock 20A fuse in the BOTTOM. The top fuse will be a 1A to 3A item -- what ever is the smallest I can find -- since the LED array doesn't pull an appreciable amount of current.
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326 viewsFeed the power feed wire through the grommet and crimp on the connector. It should be snug in order to keep moisture and dust out.
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325 viewsStock 20A fuse removed and put in its new home.
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324 viewsViewing inside after applying the RTV.
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324 viewsThe original bulbs came with a plastic ring to help hold them in their shipping case. I split it and put it behind the bulb, then carefully pushed the bulb retaining tangs onto the plastic ring. This kept the tangs more even. Without them you'll need to push the tangs down a little bit as well as bend them inward in order to retain the bulb. I oriented the bulb just like the halogen it replaced, tab pointing up. No shadows were cast, full light is output.
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323 viewsLeft heat exchanger accordion duct, looking forward. For some reason, the diameter was more than 16" so the wrap didn't fully cover it.
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323 viewsThe bulb I originally had for the left side was bad so I got a replacement. This had the wires through it but no connector. Overall, it is better as there was no need for me to cut the wires, push them through the gasket, and butt-crimp them. For the connection, I pushed the spade connectors into the stock connector, dabbed liquid electrical "tape" around it to electrically insulate it as well as help hold the connectors, then wrapped the connector in electrical tape to further hold the connectors in. Not ideal at all but it works.
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323 viewsJust a close-up of the power feed from the relay box tapped into the main power feed line that goes between the DRL LED array. The connector that's connecting white wire to red wire is what's feeding the DRL LED array.
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323 viewsRouting the power feed wire along an existing loom.
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322 viewsMy kit came with holders that the wires clip into -- notice the orientation of the tang, it faces inside so it will lock in place.
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322 viewsThe red wire in the background is the turn signal tap while the white wire in the foreground is the feed to the DRL array.
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322 viewsThis is the back side (duh) of the HEATED, WIDE-ANGLE mirror for the left side-view mirror. This fits the North American vehicles perfectly! Remember to push the electrical connectors on/off several times so they make metal-to-metal contact and coat with a dielectric grease to slow corrosion.
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321 viewsBoth wires installed and ready to go.
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321 viewsThat's a yard stick. There's 15" of leg room there.
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320 viewsWith the rubber cover turned inside-out, lift up the gasket and apply a continuous bead of silicone sealant a.k.a. RTV. This will insure a water-tight seal. Return the boot to its original state.
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320 viewsWhatever plug you may have, simply push the connectors into the gap on the inward side of the light housing as this has a good gap to hold it out of the way.
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319 viewsGrommet installed. It's low enough that it will not interfere with the closing of the relay box lid. The fuse tap wire is 16 gauge so I used a grommet that had a 5/32" bore and 1/4" x 3/32" groove.
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318 viewsGently pull on the brown and yellow wires to help keep the connector in its place when putting the rubber boot back on.
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