AirCooledNut.com

Home > Zoom-zoom > How-to

Most viewed - How-to
405.JPG
Fuse tap!366 viewsThis is how to easily and safely tap into some power without compromising the stock wiring or running a long lead through the firewall. I cut the bullet connector off so I could pass the wire through the grommet hole and so I could use one of my own spade connectors. To be on the safe side, make sure the fuse tap can handle 25A to 30A minimum. A 10A fuse tap won't work! The bottom slot is for the placing the stock fuse while the top is for the accessory and thus the red wire leading from the fuse tap.
415.JPG
365 viewsThe red wire in the background is the turn signal tap while the white wire in the foreground is the feed to the DRL array.
416.JPG
365 viewsRouting the power feed wire along an existing loom.
HID_018.jpg
364 viewsAnother view of the completed assembly. Notice that the bulb is on the inside of the rubber boot and that the bulb is still in the container. You don't want to expose the bulb until you absolutely have to, it must stay clean! You can use rubbing alcohol to wipe the bulb down if it gets dirty or you touch it -- oil from your skin is bad for the bulb!
Bus_middle_seat_010.jpg
364 viewsThat's a yard stick. There's 15" of leg room there.
insulation_003.jpg
363 viewsRight rear foam padding.
502.JPG
363 viewsIn the shade.
HID_017.jpg
362 viewsBoth wires installed and ready to go.
HID_024.jpg
362 viewsLocation where I placed the left side electronics. Attached by using the supplied double-sided tape (strong stuff!).
Bus_middle_seat_005.jpg
362 viewsClose-up. The black plastic plugs are for seat belt mountings. The attachment points for a 2-person or 3-person seat are there in the middle, just waiting to get used :-)
408.JPG
361 viewsThe fuse tab plugged in and with the stock 20A fuse in the BOTTOM. The top fuse will be a 1A to 3A item -- what ever is the smallest I can find -- since the LED array doesn't pull an appreciable amount of current.
HID_023.jpg
359 viewsGently pull on the brown and yellow wires to help keep the connector in its place when putting the rubber boot back on.
Bus_middle_seat_008.jpg
359 viewsLoosely held in.
Bus_middle_seat_001.jpg
358 viewsThe floor. Slider door edge trim removed, folding table removed, forward carpet trim screws removed, and the cut made along the forward edge of the rear seat.
IMAG0898.jpg
358 viewsThis is the back side (duh) of the HEATED, WIDE-ANGLE mirror for the left side-view mirror. This fits the North American vehicles perfectly! Remember to push the electrical connectors on/off several times so they make metal-to-metal contact and coat with a dielectric grease to slow corrosion.
aero_04.jpg
357 views
Bus_middle_seat_007.jpg
357 views2-person seat installed, yeay!!
409.JPG
357 viewsFeed the power feed wire through the grommet and crimp on the connector. It should be snug in order to keep moisture and dust out.
HID_014.jpg
356 viewsWith the rubber cover turned inside-out, lift up the gasket and apply a continuous bead of silicone sealant a.k.a. RTV. This will insure a water-tight seal. Return the boot to its original state.
HID_041.jpg
Through the hard cover356 viewsJust an FYI: I do NOT recommend this method! PITA if you have any issues. Go through the rubber cover.

Make a template that is 7/8" in diameter and trace with a permanent marker. Or put a nail or screw into the center of the circle and tap it so it leaves a dimple -- that's where you will drill. I used this location because it gave me the most slack in the wiring. The shop that does this recommended not putting the gasket in the center of the hard cover because there wouldn't be enough wiring slack.
334 files on 17 page(s) 14