AirCooledNut.com

Home > Zoom-zoom > How-to

Most viewed - How-to
512.JPG
313 viewsParking lights on.
Bus_duct_wrap_021.jpg
312 viewsLeft heat exchanger accordion duct, looking forward. For some reason, the diameter was more than 16" so the wrap didn't fully cover it.
414.JPG
312 viewsJust a close-up of the power feed from the relay box tapped into the main power feed line that goes between the DRL LED array. The connector that's connecting white wire to red wire is what's feeding the DRL LED array.
511.JPG
312 views
HID_015.jpg
311 viewsViewing inside after applying the RTV.
HID_041.jpg
Through the hard cover311 viewsJust an FYI: I do NOT recommend this method! PITA if you have any issues. Go through the rubber cover.

Make a template that is 7/8" in diameter and trace with a permanent marker. Or put a nail or screw into the center of the circle and tap it so it leaves a dimple -- that's where you will drill. I used this location because it gave me the most slack in the wiring. The shop that does this recommended not putting the gasket in the center of the hard cover because there wouldn't be enough wiring slack.
408.JPG
311 viewsThe fuse tab plugged in and with the stock 20A fuse in the BOTTOM. The top fuse will be a 1A to 3A item -- what ever is the smallest I can find -- since the LED array doesn't pull an appreciable amount of current.
HID_038.jpg
310 viewsThe bulb I originally had for the left side was bad so I got a replacement. This had the wires through it but no connector. Overall, it is better as there was no need for me to cut the wires, push them through the gasket, and butt-crimp them. For the connection, I pushed the spade connectors into the stock connector, dabbed liquid electrical "tape" around it to electrically insulate it as well as help hold the connectors, then wrapped the connector in electrical tape to further hold the connectors in. Not ideal at all but it works.
Bus_middle_seat_010.jpg
309 viewsThat's a yard stick. There's 15" of leg room there.
407.JPG
309 viewsStock 20A fuse removed and put in its new home.
404a.JPG
308 viewsGrommet installed. It's low enough that it will not interfere with the closing of the relay box lid. The fuse tap wire is 16 gauge so I used a grommet that had a 5/32" bore and 1/4" x 3/32" groove.
415.JPG
308 viewsThe red wire in the background is the turn signal tap while the white wire in the foreground is the feed to the DRL array.
HID_014.jpg
307 viewsWith the rubber cover turned inside-out, lift up the gasket and apply a continuous bead of silicone sealant a.k.a. RTV. This will insure a water-tight seal. Return the boot to its original state.
HID_017.jpg
307 viewsBoth wires installed and ready to go.
HID_018.jpg
307 viewsAnother view of the completed assembly. Notice that the bulb is on the inside of the rubber boot and that the bulb is still in the container. You don't want to expose the bulb until you absolutely have to, it must stay clean! You can use rubbing alcohol to wipe the bulb down if it gets dirty or you touch it -- oil from your skin is bad for the bulb!
Bus_middle_seat_007.jpg
307 views2-person seat installed, yeay!!
416.JPG
307 viewsRouting the power feed wire along an existing loom.
aero_04.jpg
306 views
Bus_middle_seat_009.jpg
306 viewsOnly 6" of leg room in the rear seat. I fit but I'm skinny. No problem for children, however, to fit in the back as the rear bench seat/bed is rather deep.
HID_016.jpg
305 viewsMy kit came with holders that the wires clip into -- notice the orientation of the tang, it faces inside so it will lock in place.
334 files on 17 page(s) 14