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Right side355 viewsThis is the side I started on and passed the harness through the hard cover as recommended by a shop that does the procedure. What a MAJOR pain in the butt! Ideally, it would be best to REMOVE the airbox in order to get enough space to maneuver around; a much bigger task than I cared to do after 3 hours of work involved already! I have long thin fingers and trying to get the bulb in the socket, as well as the gasket into the hard cover, was quite difficult. Anyone with thicker and/or shorter fingers would likely have an even more difficult time as the space is just too cramped around that area.
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355 viewsStock 20A fuse removed and put in its new home.
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355 views
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355 viewsMeh. Fuzzy picture of the mirror out and the plastic (nylon?) upholstery pry bar tool I used to remove the mirror. Came in a $5 kit from Harbor Freight. Since the mirror was cracked I could've used a steel clawed hammer to remove it.
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353 viewsViewing inside after applying the RTV.
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353 viewsWhatever plug you may have, simply push the connectors into the gap on the inward side of the light housing as this has a good gap to hold it out of the way.
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353 viewsThe bulb I originally had for the left side was bad so I got a replacement. This had the wires through it but no connector. Overall, it is better as there was no need for me to cut the wires, push them through the gasket, and butt-crimp them. For the connection, I pushed the spade connectors into the stock connector, dabbed liquid electrical "tape" around it to electrically insulate it as well as help hold the connectors, then wrapped the connector in electrical tape to further hold the connectors in. Not ideal at all but it works.
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351 viewsJust a close-up of the power feed from the relay box tapped into the main power feed line that goes between the DRL LED array. The connector that's connecting white wire to red wire is what's feeding the DRL LED array.
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351 viewsTo replace the mirror, the guide pins (red) insert into the guide holes. The spring clips (blue) go into their respective cavities. They don't clip to anything. The tabs (yellow) on either side of the guide pins are what clip to the circular motor assembly in the mirror housing. I gently pushed the mirror in at the 1 o'clock position and pushed the rest of it in slowly in a clock-wise motion, listening/feeling each clip (yellow) catch the ring. Use leather gloves when installing so if it breaks you don't get cut. It takes firm, evenly distributed pressure to seat the mirror.
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350 viewsWith low beams on. Very visible from the sides.
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349 viewsWhat the interior looks like. I set the mirror so it was centered in the housing. I started at the 11 o'clock position and worked my way anti-clockwise (aka counter-clockwise), gently prying the mirror clips away from the ring mount.
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348 viewsShowing the finished wiring.
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347 viewsOnly 6" of leg room in the rear seat. I fit but I'm skinny. No problem for children, however, to fit in the back as the rear bench seat/bed is rather deep.
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346 viewsSecond layer under right front carpet. Each cell is filled with sand. Pad is not bonded to the pan, it's simply laying there.
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346 viewsThe original bulbs came with a plastic ring to help hold them in their shipping case. I split it and put it behind the bulb, then carefully pushed the bulb retaining tangs onto the plastic ring. This kept the tangs more even. Without them you'll need to push the tangs down a little bit as well as bend them inward in order to retain the bulb. I oriented the bulb just like the halogen it replaced, tab pointing up. No shadows were cast, full light is output.
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345 viewsThe round disc simply pulls off the accelerator pedal stop. Carpet can then be lifted over the stop.
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344 viewsThe cover back in place with room to spare. Keeps the engine bay looking tidy.
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344 viewsClose-up of the pieces of plywood.
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344 viewsParking lights on.
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343 views...and after!
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