 Most viewed - How-to |
736 views
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736 viewsWill even work for my son's bicycle :-)
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732 views
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722 viewsSport bike clamped in without straps.
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712 viewsI chased the clamp bolt holes with a tap to expose the bare metal. I opted to not use the supplied lock washers because I don't like the idea of them digging into the paint and exposing the metal to air and moisture (rust). So ALL fasteners have blue Loctite on them to hold them in place. I used a flat washer under every bolt head and under every nut.
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712 views
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Mounting measurements703 viewsAll measurements are from the inside boundaries. Final measurements may slightly differ (~1/8") after bolts are tightened. This won't affect operation.
Drilling requires a 1/2" drill bit for metal. All of the holes in the vise parts are on the large side so there is a little bit of room for small tweaks in mounting positioning.
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656 viewsAll connected. Use the Bentley wiring diagram to assist but this is basically how it's wired. Remember, you're simply replacing the vibrator with the VR and using a resistor pack in-line with the fuel gauge sender to bring the voltage down to a reasonable level.
+12V (black wire from gauge cluster) -> VR -> gauge -> resistor pack -> tank sender (brown w/black stripe wire)
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648 viewsLooking forward, this is the point where the main heater duct connects to the forward 'Y' where some heat can be diverted to the interior floor vent that is between the driver/passenger seats that points into the center of the Bus. Here the flap is closed so all heated air goes to the front of the Bus.
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642 viewsWhat it looks like under the dash when put back together. The resistors aren't touching anything and there's no tension on them.
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637 viewsI put a scrap piece of insulation (that I removed from the corner) under the split-loom to fully cover the duct.
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626 viewsUnder the pedal area. The section behind it isn't insulated yet...
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620 viewsAnother view.
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620 viewsSeparate the bottom plug (black) and the seal (light blue) within. You'll need to unwrap the black electrical tape on the wiring and throw it away. This will give you the needed slack in the wiring.
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620 viewsRight fog light installed, front view. Note that adjusting screw is always at the top.
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604 viewsBack side of the right fog light housing.
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601 viewsClose up of mounting the VR to the back of the gauge body.
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600 viewsHere's the plug to be modified. I found it unnecessary to remove ALL of the plugs per the instructions but you can. Remember to lift the red tab up to unlock the connector.
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596 viewsFog wiring harness, right side, zip-tie location.
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594 viewsWhat I did was take a short piece of wire and solder it to the pin on the VR and then shrink-wrapped it to keep it insulated. I then crimped a spade connector at the end of the wire. I have a quality (a.k.a. expensive) wire crimper so I know my crimps are good and will last. The right pin (red wire) of the VR connects to the right spade/tab on the fuel gauge. The left pin (black wire) is what gets the +12 volts. Note the spade connetors are being used -- the red wire has a female spade connector and connects to the fuel gauge while the black wire has a male spade connector and is connected to the +12 volt black wire from the gauge cluster.
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