 Most viewed - How-to |
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605 views
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Mounting measurements600 viewsAll measurements are from the inside boundaries. Final measurements may slightly differ (~1/8") after bolts are tightened. This won't affect operation.
Drilling requires a 1/2" drill bit for metal. All of the holes in the vise parts are on the large side so there is a little bit of room for small tweaks in mounting positioning.
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592 viewsI chased the clamp bolt holes with a tap to expose the bare metal. I opted to not use the supplied lock washers because I don't like the idea of them digging into the paint and exposing the metal to air and moisture (rust). So ALL fasteners have blue Loctite on them to hold them in place. I used a flat washer under every bolt head and under every nut.
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587 viewsSport bike clamped in without straps.
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580 viewsWill even work for my son's bicycle :-)
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578 viewsAll connected. Use the Bentley wiring diagram to assist but this is basically how it's wired. Remember, you're simply replacing the vibrator with the VR and using a resistor pack in-line with the fuel gauge sender to bring the voltage down to a reasonable level.
+12V (black wire from gauge cluster) -> VR -> gauge -> resistor pack -> tank sender (brown w/black stripe wire)
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573 views
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562 viewsLooking forward, this is the point where the main heater duct connects to the forward 'Y' where some heat can be diverted to the interior floor vent that is between the driver/passenger seats that points into the center of the Bus. Here the flap is closed so all heated air goes to the front of the Bus.
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556 viewsWhat it looks like under the dash when put back together. The resistors aren't touching anything and there's no tension on them.
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543 viewsI put a scrap piece of insulation (that I removed from the corner) under the split-loom to fully cover the duct.
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536 viewsUnder the pedal area. The section behind it isn't insulated yet...
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532 viewsAnother view.
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514 viewsRight fog light installed, front view. Note that adjusting screw is always at the top.
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512 viewsClose up of mounting the VR to the back of the gauge body.
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510 viewsMeasure the length needed to be wrapped, add 1/2" to 1" extra, and cut with ordinary scissors. The wrap I used was 16" and it worked well to wrap the circumference of the duct with a little over-lap. Put the over-lap seam down so if water should get in, it will drain out. I had 11" and 8" zip-ties so I used them together to hold the wrap. Snug it down until it just dimples the insulation; don't reef down on it and over-tighten it!
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509 viewsLooking forward at the center section. I clipped off the stock duct zip-ties, wrapped the duct, and then zip-tied the duct back to the mounting points.
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507 viewsWhat I did was take a short piece of wire and solder it to the pin on the VR and then shrink-wrapped it to keep it insulated. I then crimped a spade connector at the end of the wire. I have a quality (a.k.a. expensive) wire crimper so I know my crimps are good and will last. The right pin (red wire) of the VR connects to the right spade/tab on the fuel gauge. The left pin (black wire) is what gets the +12 volts. Note the spade connetors are being used -- the red wire has a female spade connector and connects to the fuel gauge while the black wire has a male spade connector and is connected to the +12 volt black wire from the gauge cluster.
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504 viewsBack side of the right fog light housing.
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499 viewsThis next sequence shows how I insulated the loop that feeds the main cabin (as opposed to the section that feeds the driver's cabin). Put an 18" rectangle of the insulation above the duct, cut a slit, and wrap the duct that feeds the cabin. Thus, I worked backwards, insulating the right arm of the Y-duct last (if laying on your back and looking up).
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