 Most viewed - How-to |
438 viewsI used a 7/16" socket -- none of my standard metric sockets fit! -- to carefully snug down the VR. I used the stock sheet metal screw from the original vibrator to secure the VR down. I also put a stainless steel split washer under the head of the screw to help lock the screw in place. Just in case...
|
|
436 viewsFog wiring harness, right side, zip-tie location.
|
|
433 viewsTo make life MUCH easier just remove the battery. Also remove the positive power lead (red wire I'm holding) from the fuse box as well as the cover.
|
|
432 viewsNext, use a small screwdriver to lift the inner plug out. It only moves a few millimeters so you don't need to completely remove it!
|
|
431 viewsRight fog bolted in.
|
|
430 viewsMeasure the length needed to be wrapped, add 1/2" to 1" extra, and cut with ordinary scissors. The wrap I used was 16" and it worked well to wrap the circumference of the duct with a little over-lap. Put the over-lap seam down so if water should get in, it will drain out. I had 11" and 8" zip-ties so I used them together to hold the wrap. Snug it down until it just dimples the insulation; don't reef down on it and over-tighten it!
|
|
429 viewsAll wired up, fog harness plugged in & grounded, and the fuse box ready to be re-installed. I used a stock grounding point under the module per the Routan instructions. The Chrysler instructions show the ground attached to the negative battery cable.
|
|
427 viewsSeparate the bottom plug (black) and the seal (light blue) within. You'll need to unwrap the black electrical tape on the wiring and throw it away. This will give you the needed slack in the wiring.
|
|
427 viewsUsing needle-nosed pliers remove the tits from inside the plug backing for the #16 and #11 holes. Don't remove the others as they fill the holes in the seal.
|
|
425 viewsFeed your pigtail wires in, white with yellow stripe on the left in the #16 hole and the white with orange stripe on the right in the #11 hole. The numbers are on the outside of the black plug.
|
|
424 viewsUse a split-seam wire loom around the e-brake cable to keep it from rubbing a groove into the insulation.
|
|
421 views(continued) The resistors came as a two-pack and were $1.25 each ($3.50 total for 4 resistors).
My "resistor pack". I wrapped the wires together so they will be in series...
|
|
418 views...as can be seen here. I again used Plasti Dip to cover/protect the exposed wire. Use one female spade and one male spade connector. The female will be connected to the fuel gauge and the male will be connected to the brown with black stripe wire that goes to the fuel gauge sending unit.
|
|
416 views...then soldered them together, trimmed off the extra wire, and carefully bent it back on itself.
|
|
416 viewsWires snapped in place.
|
|
415 views
|
|
415 viewsWhere it ends. Give or take several inches :-)
|
|
414 viewsThis next sequence shows how I insulated the loop that feeds the main cabin (as opposed to the section that feeds the driver's cabin). Put an 18" rectangle of the insulation above the duct, cut a slit, and wrap the duct that feeds the cabin. Thus, I worked backwards, insulating the right arm of the Y-duct last (if laying on your back and looking up).
|
|
414 viewsView of the Y-section taken from the left side.
|
|
Mounting the LED array.412 viewsRemove the bolt that holds the bumper skin to the upper quarter panel (left side shown). It is above the two wheel well screws.
|
|
| 334 files on 17 page(s) |
 |
6 | |
|
