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595 viewsUsing needle-nosed pliers remove the tits from inside the plug backing for the #16 and #11 holes. Don't remove the others as they fill the holes in the seal.
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593 viewsMeasure the length needed to be wrapped, add 1/2" to 1" extra, and cut with ordinary scissors. The wrap I used was 16" and it worked well to wrap the circumference of the duct with a little over-lap. Put the over-lap seam down so if water should get in, it will drain out. I had 11" and 8" zip-ties so I used them together to hold the wrap. Snug it down until it just dimples the insulation; don't reef down on it and over-tighten it!
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591 viewsHere are the resistors...beefy! They are 3 watts each. If you use a smaller wattage resistor they will get hot!! These will get warm but not hot. One is 1-ohm and the other 16-ohms. You wire them in series so you get a total of 17-ohms resistance. So you can use any combination of resistors you want, just shoot for 17-ohms. This puts my gas gauge needle right on the first white mark (left side) of the red Reserve section but the needle will go a little past the Full mark when the tank is topped up. Add more resistance to have the needle move down more but I'm guessing that a total of 20-ohms would be the max to use.
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590 viewsNext, use a small screwdriver to lift the inner plug out. It only moves a few millimeters so you don't need to completely remove it!
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586 views
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586 viewsAll wired up, fog harness plugged in & grounded, and the fuse box ready to be re-installed. I used a stock grounding point under the module per the Routan instructions. The Chrysler instructions show the ground attached to the negative battery cable.
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580 views(continued) The resistors came as a two-pack and were $1.25 each ($3.50 total for 4 resistors).
My "resistor pack". I wrapped the wires together so they will be in series...
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580 viewsI used a 7/16" socket -- none of my standard metric sockets fit! -- to carefully snug down the VR. I used the stock sheet metal screw from the original vibrator to secure the VR down. I also put a stainless steel split washer under the head of the screw to help lock the screw in place. Just in case...
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579 viewsLooking forward at the center section. I clipped off the stock duct zip-ties, wrapped the duct, and then zip-tied the duct back to the mounting points.
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578 viewsWhere it ends. Give or take several inches :-)
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577 viewsSame duct, just took the picture from the left side of the Bus. Wrapping this duct is likely the most difficult of all the ducts so go slow and think. I know the pictures aren't a huge help but they give an idea. I'm sure there's more than one way to insulate this loop.
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577 viewsStock fascia blank removed, right side. There are four hooks (one at each corner) that hold it in. After trying to be careful removing the right side, I said to hell with it and cut the tabs on the left side and threw away the blanks.
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Reference: Rear gear box, rear side.577 viewsRear side of rear gear box. Steel roll pin is 3/16" diameter by 1-1/2" long. This is where the crank handle connects. The zinc washer is 2" diameter with a 3/4" hole and is a tad thicker than the original one (I couldn't find a thin one). The grommet between the washer and case is 1-5/8" outside diameter (OD) and 1/4" thick so it's just slightly thinner than the original one.
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576 viewsFeed your pigtail wires in, white with yellow stripe on the left in the #16 hole and the white with orange stripe on the right in the #11 hole. The numbers are on the outside of the black plug.
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576 viewsWires snapped in place.
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575 viewsThe right side fully wrapped with no problem. By the way, I'd recommend disconnecting the battery when working on the Y-section and back (like this part) as the insulation can conduct electricity and there is the starter chillin' out there, with it's +12v constant supply just waiting for some action ;-)
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574 viewsTo make life MUCH easier just remove the battery. Also remove the positive power lead (red wire I'm holding) from the fuse box as well as the cover.
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573 viewsUse a split-seam wire loom around the e-brake cable to keep it from rubbing a groove into the insulation.
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569 viewsThis next sequence shows how I insulated the loop that feeds the main cabin (as opposed to the section that feeds the driver's cabin). Put an 18" rectangle of the insulation above the duct, cut a slit, and wrap the duct that feeds the cabin. Thus, I worked backwards, insulating the right arm of the Y-duct last (if laying on your back and looking up).
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Reference: Rear gear box, front side.568 viewsFront side of rear gear box. Steel roll pin is 3/16" x 1-1/4". This is where the drive shaft fits.
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