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499 viewsHere's the plug to be modified. I found it unnecessary to remove ALL of the plugs per the instructions but you can. Remember to lift the red tab up to unlock the connector.
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496 viewsFog wiring harness, right side, zip-tie location.
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495 viewsHere are the resistors...beefy! They are 3 watts each. If you use a smaller wattage resistor they will get hot!! These will get warm but not hot. One is 1-ohm and the other 16-ohms. You wire them in series so you get a total of 17-ohms resistance. So you can use any combination of resistors you want, just shoot for 17-ohms. This puts my gas gauge needle right on the first white mark (left side) of the red Reserve section but the needle will go a little past the Full mark when the tank is topped up. Add more resistance to have the needle move down more but I'm guessing that a total of 20-ohms would be the max to use.
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492 viewsUse a split-seam wire loom around the e-brake cable to keep it from rubbing a groove into the insulation.
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492 viewsStock fascia blank removed, right side. There are four hooks (one at each corner) that hold it in. After trying to be careful removing the right side, I said to hell with it and cut the tabs on the left side and threw away the blanks.
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489 viewsNext, use a small screwdriver to lift the inner plug out. It only moves a few millimeters so you don't need to completely remove it!
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486 viewsI used a 7/16" socket -- none of my standard metric sockets fit! -- to carefully snug down the VR. I used the stock sheet metal screw from the original vibrator to secure the VR down. I also put a stainless steel split washer under the head of the screw to help lock the screw in place. Just in case...
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485 viewsTo make life MUCH easier just remove the battery. Also remove the positive power lead (red wire I'm holding) from the fuse box as well as the cover.
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484 viewsWhere it ends. Give or take several inches :-)
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483 viewsAll wired up, fog harness plugged in & grounded, and the fuse box ready to be re-installed. I used a stock grounding point under the module per the Routan instructions. The Chrysler instructions show the ground attached to the negative battery cable.
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481 viewsSame duct, just took the picture from the left side of the Bus. Wrapping this duct is likely the most difficult of all the ducts so go slow and think. I know the pictures aren't a huge help but they give an idea. I'm sure there's more than one way to insulate this loop.
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481 views(continued) The resistors came as a two-pack and were $1.25 each ($3.50 total for 4 resistors).
My "resistor pack". I wrapped the wires together so they will be in series...
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481 viewsSeparate the bottom plug (black) and the seal (light blue) within. You'll need to unwrap the black electrical tape on the wiring and throw it away. This will give you the needed slack in the wiring.
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480 viewsUsing needle-nosed pliers remove the tits from inside the plug backing for the #16 and #11 holes. Don't remove the others as they fill the holes in the seal.
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479 viewsFeed your pigtail wires in, white with yellow stripe on the left in the #16 hole and the white with orange stripe on the right in the #11 hole. The numbers are on the outside of the black plug.
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479 viewsWires snapped in place.
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477 viewsRight fog bolted in.
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Night example.477 viewsNight time example of turn signals. Also on YouTube.com at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uAUECRUXoQo&list=UUhzs41pIUb_YugBfXOWUwvw&index=3&feature=plcp
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476 viewsThis is a view -- looking to the front of the Bus -- of the dreaded "Y" section where the heat exchanger ducts merge to the center tunnel duct.
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475 viewsView of the Y-section taken from the left side.
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