 Most viewed - How-to |
472 views...as can be seen here. I again used Plasti Dip to cover/protect the exposed wire. Use one female spade and one male spade connector. The female will be connected to the fuel gauge and the male will be connected to the brown with black stripe wire that goes to the fuel gauge sending unit.
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470 views...but now it is!
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468 viewsThe right side fully wrapped with no problem. By the way, I'd recommend disconnecting the battery when working on the Y-section and back (like this part) as the insulation can conduct electricity and there is the starter chillin' out there, with it's +12v constant supply just waiting for some action ;-)
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Mounting the LED array.465 viewsRemove the bolt that holds the bumper skin to the upper quarter panel (left side shown). It is above the two wheel well screws.
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463 viewsI used "Plasti Dip" over the joint as it's an electrical insulator and will protect the joint. It's thick and simply paints on.
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462 viewsStock, non-fog light switch.
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460 views...then soldered them together, trimmed off the extra wire, and carefully bent it back on itself.
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Fogs comparison with low beams on459 viewsLeft picture is with the fogs off -- Right picture is with the fogs on.
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458 viewsNew light switch plugged in. See the red tab? It's in the 'unlocked' position...
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458 viewsView from the driver's seat with the fogs on. Notice the green "fog lights on" indicator to the right of the speedometer and below the red "fasten seat belt" indicator. I just finished adjusting the fog lights. The top of the light you see on the building wall is 14". If I went by the instructions it would've been 13" but I wanted just a little more distance.
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456 views
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456 viewsWhere I zip-tied the left side of the harness. It comes down near the radiator over-flow container (the pink bottle). Don't use the aluminum object to the left, that's the heat-sink for the coils!
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455 viewsI wasn't able to fully wrap this piece. It was a real pain to get the insulation on top of it. Since it is already insulated from the factory I didn't worry much about cutting up some insulation and wrapping the bottom. Maybe at a later date. Notice that I did put an 18" sheet across the top of the heat exchanger ducts that go over the torsion housing. What a pain in the neck! Trying to wrap this section wasn't worth it, with the tubes, guides, wires, and shifter parts all in the way -- very busy area!
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454 viewsIndexes all lined up. Ready for the case halves to be mated now.
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453 viewsI used a small zip-tie to keep the resistors together while working on them. Not critical to have but makes the pack more sturdy and easier to handle. You can also see that I bent the wires back on themselves, essentially making them thicker. This allowed me to crimp spade connectors to them...
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452 viewsNotice that I put a length of split-loom over the cable and wrapped the insulation over it. Again, the split-loom keep the cable from cutting into the insulation.
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452 views
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452 viewsHow it looks all wired up.
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452 viewsHow it looks with the plug put all back together.
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449 viewsHere is the flapper box that sits above the heat exchangers. This is the closed position so all air exits out the "bell" (right-most part of the flapper box) and into the atmosphere. Air is always flowing through the heat exchangers -- it just goes into the interior or vents to the outside.
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