 Most viewed - How-to |
Night example.412 viewsNight time example of turn signals. Also on YouTube.com at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uAUECRUXoQo&list=UUhzs41pIUb_YugBfXOWUwvw&index=3&feature=plcp
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Fogs comparison with low beams on412 viewsLeft picture is with the fogs off -- Right picture is with the fogs on.
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410 viewsView from the driver's seat with the fogs on. Notice the green "fog lights on" indicator to the right of the speedometer and below the red "fasten seat belt" indicator. I just finished adjusting the fog lights. The top of the light you see on the building wall is 14". If I went by the instructions it would've been 13" but I wanted just a little more distance.
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409 viewsNotice that I put a length of split-loom over the cable and wrapped the insulation over it. Again, the split-loom keep the cable from cutting into the insulation.
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407 viewsI used a small zip-tie to keep the resistors together while working on them. Not critical to have but makes the pack more sturdy and easier to handle. You can also see that I bent the wires back on themselves, essentially making them thicker. This allowed me to crimp spade connectors to them...
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406 views...but now it is!
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405 viewsThis is a view -- looking to the front of the Bus -- of the dreaded "Y" section where the heat exchanger ducts merge to the center tunnel duct.
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403 viewsHow it looks all wired up.
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403 viewsHow it looks with the plug put all back together.
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402 viewsI used "Plasti Dip" over the joint as it's an electrical insulator and will protect the joint. It's thick and simply paints on.
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401 viewsThe right side fully wrapped with no problem. By the way, I'd recommend disconnecting the battery when working on the Y-section and back (like this part) as the insulation can conduct electricity and there is the starter chillin' out there, with it's +12v constant supply just waiting for some action ;-)
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399 viewsI wasn't able to fully wrap this piece. It was a real pain to get the insulation on top of it. Since it is already insulated from the factory I didn't worry much about cutting up some insulation and wrapping the bottom. Maybe at a later date. Notice that I did put an 18" sheet across the top of the heat exchanger ducts that go over the torsion housing. What a pain in the neck! Trying to wrap this section wasn't worth it, with the tubes, guides, wires, and shifter parts all in the way -- very busy area!
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399 viewsStock, non-fog light switch.
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Applying the LED array to the head light.398 viewsI started from the top (right side of picture) and carefully removed the LED backing tape as I move towards the front of the head light. Just eye-balled the application but kept it more towards the inside of the light (engine side). This allows more light to be spread out onto the head light lens and disperse the light. I put a rubber tube around the wires to protect them from chaffing against the metal. Be sure to clean the lens well! I used rubbing alcohol and a clean rag.
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398 viewsTa-da!
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397 viewsIndexes all lined up. Ready for the case halves to be mated now.
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396 views
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396 viewsNew light switch plugged in. See the red tab? It's in the 'unlocked' position...
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Reference: Rear gear box, rear side.396 viewsRear side of rear gear box. Steel roll pin is 3/16" diameter by 1-1/2" long. This is where the crank handle connects. The zinc washer is 2" diameter with a 3/4" hole and is a tad thicker than the original one (I couldn't find a thin one). The grommet between the washer and case is 1-5/8" outside diameter (OD) and 1/4" thick so it's just slightly thinner than the original one.
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395 viewsSame duct, just took the picture from the left side of the Bus. Wrapping this duct is likely the most difficult of all the ducts so go slow and think. I know the pictures aren't a huge help but they give an idea. I'm sure there's more than one way to insulate this loop.
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