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Reference: Rear gear box, rear side.448 viewsRear side of rear gear box. Steel roll pin is 3/16" diameter by 1-1/2" long. This is where the crank handle connects. The zinc washer is 2" diameter with a 3/4" hole and is a tad thicker than the original one (I couldn't find a thin one). The grommet between the washer and case is 1-5/8" outside diameter (OD) and 1/4" thick so it's just slightly thinner than the original one.
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447 views
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Getting the power ready for the turn signal LED array.444 viewsUse a BLUE wire tap-in like what I show. The ones that are RED are for smaller wire sizes and the YELLOW ones are for larger wires. I prefer these because when you insert the insulated male connector it makes a positive fit and keeps the tap locked on to the wire. -- Left side: Tap into the white wire with the GREEN stripe. -- Right side: Tap into the white wire with the BROWN stripe. -- FYI for both lights: The black wire [on the outside] is ground, the middle wire is the parking light and the other outside wire is the turn signal.
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443 viewsThe repaired pin in place. Thin plastic washer goes between the gear (front and rear gears) and the case.
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Reference: Rear gear box, front side.443 viewsFront side of rear gear box. Steel roll pin is 3/16" x 1-1/4". This is where the drive shaft fits.
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442 viewsNew fog-light equipped light switch. To operate simply push the dial in. Of course, you have to go to the *&$%! dealership to get it 'enabled'! Fogs automatically turn off when high beams are turned on, however, they remain on when using the "flash to pass" feature. Also, the 'system' remembers the position of the fogs so if you leave them on when you turn off the lights, they will automatically come back on when you turn the lights back on, including if you turn off the car.
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441 viewsTa-da!
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440 viewsThis is the flapper opened 1/2-way. So some heated air will enter the cabin and some will exit to the atmosphere.
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440 viewsTop view of LEDs firing.
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439 views
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437 viewsThis picture and the next show that the corner is cut and folded onto itself. It's best to have over-lapping than a gap in the insulation.
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435 viewsHere's the VR (voltage regulator) information. This is what you need. I got mine for $3.15 at Norvac Electronics, Inc. You can also get it at Fry's. NTE1932, IC voltage regulator, positive 10-volts, 1-amp.
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Applying the LED array to the head light.435 viewsI started from the top (right side of picture) and carefully removed the LED backing tape as I move towards the front of the head light. Just eye-balled the application but kept it more towards the inside of the light (engine side). This allows more light to be spread out onto the head light lens and disperse the light. I put a rubber tube around the wires to protect them from chaffing against the metal. Be sure to clean the lens well! I used rubbing alcohol and a clean rag.
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434 viewsPermatex 2A gasket silicone is what I smeared on the mating surfaces of the case half instead of using a gasket.
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Connecting the DRL LED array.429 viewsI used a hand drill with a 2mm drill bit (smallest I had) to carefully drill a pilot hole into the side of the relay box. The pilot hole is 7mm down from the top of the lip of the fuse/relay box. It's between fuses M20 and M27.
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428 viewsHere the flapper is opened all of the way so all of the heated air goes into the Bus interior. This system is used by all the Types of engines (Type I/II, III, & IV).
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427 viewsAll the bearings are roller bearings and they are held in with the grease. When cleaning the grease and wiping the bearings they will most likely fall out so work over a soft, plush towel to keep them from bouncing away. Pack the bearings and cage surfaces with fresh grease and slip any fallen bearings back in. You should see no gaps between the bearings. Pack more grease in when they're all in and roll them around with your finger to spread the fresh grease around. It will hold them in there.
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426 viewsFlap fully open, allowing some of the heated air to divert into the center of the Bus for the rear passengers.
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